Jump to content
CoinPeople.com

ccg

Members
  • Posts

    29,966
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by ccg

  1. If someone else doesn't come by I'll try to revisit this post and pull out some references for a better attribution, but from a quick glance, my best guesses would be

     

    1. Crispus

    2. Constantine I

    3. Constans

    4. Someone from Constantine's family

    5. Probably mid-later 4th century

    7. 4th century. The spear showing up in the portrait should assist with the attribution of this votive type

     

    6,8,9 appear to be "radiate" pieces from the mid-late 3rd century

  2. Hi I'm new here. I have some coins that I inherited from my mom. all canadian. i did some quick research on the net and some are "proof-like" uncirculated sets (6-coins, different demonimations, sealed in those celophane wraps). In the same bag in which she kept these coins, there are also 11 LOOSE $1 silver coins (not wrapped in anything protective except an old fabric pencil case in which my mom kept the coins). but because these coins were not in a "special protective wrap" like the sets, the silver is darkened and discolored. while doing my quick search I saw that there are a few different kinds of these 1966 silver dollar coins (small, medium and large beaded) and depending on the type of beading, some of them can be worth quite a lot, even if they are circulated...(I have no idea how accurate is the website I found the info) anyhow, I am wondering, should I try to get some of the dirt off with a regular silver/jewellery cleaner/polisher?

    concerning some of the others, I saw on some sites they ask for authentication for the coins when selling them. is this truly necessary when they are sealed canada mint sets and if yes- where does one get such certs and what is the cost? Also where is the best place you can sell coins without getting ripped off? Thanks

     

    Hi!

     

    As a general rule of thumb, I don't recommend cleaning anything, unless it's a common item with little/no collectible value, in which case it doesn't really matter.

     

    Earlier prooflike sets from the 1950s into the early 1960s some in cardboard holders with a really brittle plastic wrap.

    These should always be left intact as they are collectible as such.

     

    Later sets should also be kept intact, but there's not too much market demand for these sets.

    Those from c. 1963-67 are generally traded for close to the value of the silver in the coins.

    Those from c. 1968-69 are traded for very close to face value

    Sets from the 1970s onwards vary. Most sets are relatively common and many 1970s and 1980s sets retail in the $5-10 range.

     

    Certification is generally not necessary on common / average material.

     

    There are some variations on 1965 and 1966 silver dollars, but frankly speaking, it's like lotto tickets - most are going to be "not a winner" so to say. That being said, if you really have the time to learn the varieties and check yours out, by all means, you should do so just to find out for sure. But most dealers don't generally look for them (rare varieties).

  3. what caused a die to crack or break. if answer is from use and worn, if it is worn then i say the die shows it dose have some kind of effect on die when being in use that also shows. i bet if you get a worn die and you were to apply acid on the oppisite end you will see the dies imprints. maybe a broken die would be better or cutting it down the middle.

     

    A die, like any object, can only take so much stress before it fails. That said, dies are made of pretty strong alloys to withstand the high and constant pressure placed on them when striking planchets.

     

    As for the latter portion of your post - I'm sure there are plenty of structural engineers who'd beg to differ.

×
×
  • Create New...