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Toned Coins...what do you think??


LostDutchman

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I LOVE toned Morgans...have several but nothing real wild....but I also really like the toned Jeffersons. A friend has a couple that are a beautiful blue. I really need to find one of those. :ninja:

 

I put together a roll of morgans dollars in a Dollar Wrapper and the end coins are toning...nothing in the middle....had them in there for about a year now sitting on the window sill.

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sometimes it's hard to tell artifical toning from the real deal.... Natural toned dollars will usually only be toned on one side. I do like a nice rim tone of a dollar as well....the hardest ones to get are coins with a green toning....it's hard to find and from what I have been told rare.

 

BTW that post....can't beat that.....not with a stick....you have to love that stuff

 

 

Yes, that green toning is nice. I recently sold a gorgeous 1885-O Morgan with mild greenish rim toning seen from the obverse and with spectacular olive toning shading to mauve toward one edge, which covered most of the reverse. It must have happened in a roll end or in an album. I think the green toning is the least often seen among the colors my toned coins have been.

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No thanks. I like my silver coin either grey or white. All coins look better to me when pictured in black and white anyhow. On greyscale toned coins i like the contrast between the darker designs and the lighter fields it gives a coin that 'striking' quality.

 

I even like some silver coins toned to black.

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Does anyone else have some sites dedicated to toning? I'm looking for some that give details on how to tone a coin using different chemicals. This "Shake-N-Bake" technique is something I've read about before but can't find information on it.

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Normally I do not care for toning, however my one weak spot for colorfully toned coins are bust halves.  In fact I generally only buy bust halves with nice color, especially blues and greens around the edge.  Check this one out: 1827.  I also have a nicely toned 1810 in VF35, but I don't have any photos.  I also have a really nice 1830 that is on its way to NGC, here are some photos: 1830 Obverse and 1830 Reverse.  That one has a little too much color in the center, but I like it anyway.

 

Well, I sent this one in to NGC to be graded, and although the grade it not yet posted, they did post the variety today, and it is a small 0, O-118, so a pretty good Overton variety! I originally thought this one was a common O-117 variety. Now I know it is a scarce variety, though not rare, so I will have to read up on it when I get home tonight. :ninja:

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Well, the grades were posted for my submission on the NGC site, and the 1830 half was graded MS-61, which is tied with another coin for the highest grade of any 1830 O-118 graded by NGC. For all 1830 varieties, there are 37 in MS-61 with 276 graded higher. Overall, not bad! ;):ninja:;)

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Well, the grades were posted for my submission on the NGC site, and the 1830 half was graded MS-61, which is tied with another coin for the highest grade of any 1830 O-118 graded by NGC.  For all 1830 varieties, there are 37 in MS-61 with 276 graded higher.  Overall, not bad! ;)  :ninja:  ;)

 

Congrats! Sounds like you are pretty happy with that submission. I sure would be.

 

Are you considering resubmitting it to try for a 62 or just be happy with the 61?

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No, I am not a player in the resubmission game. I usually submit for specific reasons, mainly to establish a grade (even if it's one I don't agree with), establish authenticity, and establish any meaningful varieties (Overton, VAM, etc.). So, I accomplished all three with this coin. I will leave it up to someone else to try to upgrade if they see fit, but if I sell it, I'm sure that more than simply the grade on the slab will go into the considerations of price. In this same submission I had a worn out 2-cent piece, and the main reason I submitted it was for authentication (it's an 1872) and I thought sure it would be G-4, or maybe even AG-3, but it came back VG-8. Doesn't much matter though, since it's still worth only a couple hundred bucks anyway. Regardless, you can consider me old school in that when I buy or sell coins I do just that, the slab is just the packaging with a third party opinion attached!

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Doesn't much matter though, since it's still worth only a couple hundred bucks anyway. 

 

That made me laugh :ninja:

 

I didn't think you would resubmit but have seen quite a few topics on CU about people resubmitting if they were tied for highest grade. Probably not worth the money and time unless you were looking to make big money off a deal.

 

With my 1899-O Morgan I can definitely say I love toned coins. This isn't one that will make you take a second look because of the flashy colors. I can really see why people spend the extra cash for toned coins. They make a nice addition to any collection. Next up is a blast white Morgan....

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I'm sorry Burks, I didn't mean to make you laugh or feel bad. It wasn't so long ago that I was a poor college kid, or a poor grad student who considered myself lucky to save coins from change! When I first graduated from college I bought a set of 3 Statue of Liberty coins in a mail bid auction (for you younger folks, that was before the internet, so instead of eBay you would get a catalog in the mail, fill out a form with your bids and send it in, then you were notified by mail if you won, and had to send in the check). I paid about $110 for that set, and it was way more than I could afford! Back then I had to scrape together enough each January to buy my one roll of unc. silver eagles, which in many years was my only coin purchase for the entire year! As I got older and made more money, I started buying more, at first from the Mint (lucky for me I must have had good taste since I bought an unc. NCS dollar and the Kennedy set with the matte proof half, two of the best winners from the mint in the 90s), and then later at shops and auctions. I never even bought my first Saint until 1999! Just enjoy what you can, when you can. There are still many coins, like an HR Saint that are beyond my budget, but maybe someday they will. Right now, your budget is tight, but you are investing in the most important thing, your education. That is something that cannot be repossessed, but will pay dividends throughout your life so that eventually you will be able to afford the things you can only dream about now!

 

As for the CU forum comments, that is likely true on some coins, especially modern ones where the only ones worth big bucks are the top graded coins. This coin is tied for top only on the narrow subset of the O-118, but in comparison to all 1830 halves graded, it's not even close to the top which is MS-65. There was a thread on the NGC boards recently that in many instances, particularly bust halves where coins in AU-58 holders have sell for as much or more than those in MS-60 or even MS-62 holders based on the quality and eye appeal of the coin itself. That is why I am not worried about this one. I looked on Heritage's website for past sales of 1830s in MS-61, and there have only been 9 since 1993, and none could hold a candle to this one (of course Heritage is horrible with photos of attractively toned coins!), so whenever I decide to sell this coin, I am confident I won't be disappointed.

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I'm sorry Burks, I didn't mean to make you laugh or feel bad.

 

Didn't make me feel bad. No worries there. Maybe some day I will make it to the point where a coin is ONLY a couple hundred. :ninja:

 

Darn right my education is an investment, $18k+ a year for the next six years.

 

Very insightful information you posted. I'm sure that can go for everyone here. Thanks a bunch!

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I have a soft spot in my heart for toned coins, especally dollars. I just can't get enough of them. I know this topic is one for debate and has been for a while....with all the unnatural toning out there....but nothing beats an original bag toned rainbow dollar...let me know what you think!

This came up again at the club meeting last night. What I don't understand is how anyone draws the line between artificial and original toning. Toning is a specific chemical process that can happen over years, months, week,s hours, or minutes. How much time = artificial and how much time = real?

 

If I were independently wealthy I'd love to do an experiment with toning coins and PCGS. :ninja:

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If I were independently wealthy I'd love to do an experiment with toning coins and PCGS.  :ninja:

 

Ha! I thought about that yesterday when the lottery thing came over the radio. I'd send in a mix lot of very well toned Morgan's (knowing which were real and which I toned) and see what comes back as what. Seeing as I don't have that money to throw around, we'll leave that till another day.

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This came up again at the club meeting last night.  What I don't understand is how anyone draws the line between artificial and original toning.  Toning is a specific chemical process that can happen over years, months, week,s hours, or minutes.  How much time = artificial and how much time = real?

 

Different people draw the line different places. That is probably why the TPGs usually refer to Questionable Toning or Market Accepotable Toning instead of flat out Artificial and Natural toning. TOning is in the eye of the beholder. :ninja:

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Different people draw the line different places. That is probably why the TPGs usually refer to Questionable Toning or Market Accepotable Toning instead of flat out Artificial and Natural toning. TOning is in the eye of the beholder. :ninja:

 

True, but at what point do they decide that a coins can go into a slab rather than being body bagged? Is there an objective standard or is it more subjective?

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True, but at what point do they decide that a coins can go into a slab rather than being body bagged?  Is there an objective standard or is it more subjective?

 

I would call a lot of it subjective myself. I am no expert but there are a lot of things that are apparently taken into consideration with toning. Certain types tend to tone in certain ways because of the way they were stored.

 

For example, you see a lot of Morgans with bag toning but you probably won't see many Seated Liberty halves with bag toning. You see some old Commems with a particular tab type toning from the holders but you probably won't see a Mercury dime with that kind of toning. Apparently, there are certain colors that are very hard to fake and other colors that tend to come out when a coin is AT'd.

 

But, unless you have a documented chain of storage and such, you can't ever be 100% certain, I would imagine. So, there is always a certain level of subjectivity, I think. But, having said that, there is a lot of knowledge that goes into it and it is not just a WAG all the time.

 

If a coin is AT'd so well that no one can tell the difference, does it really matter?

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Good points Stujoe. I would suspect you are probably right on the patterns of toning. If a coin has unusual toning for the type it would probably get sent back.

 

I don't think it makes a difference where the toning comes from, it's all the same chemistry in the end. I am just curious on what the TPG services do.

 

I wonder if they ever smell the coins to see if there is any residure of treatment :ninja:

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