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Roger

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Everything posted by Roger

  1. So far the consensus is that buying on Ebay is a good thing and I for the most part agree. However selling seems to be a different matter with the outrageous fees and rules. Ebay does have a huge market and the number of sales overshadow any other web based auction. As far a divulging your specific honey holes I wouldn't expect anyone to give those up as I wouldn't either. One of the issues I have is trying to obtain a specific coin or medal that is lumped together in a lot with other coins/medals. If I purchase the lot then what do I do with the leftovers? I suppose the answer is to resist buying those lots and find the lone medal/coin somewhere else. I do agree with Constanius on the fact if you make an effort to go to the coin show or auction you feel compelled to come home with something.
  2. Bill, this is true for Ebay in the US, but I do not know if this has been enacted on other the Ebay sites such as Ebay UK etc.
  3. Bill is just like the energizer bunny. Always bringing new stuff up to tempt the focused (or not so focused in my case) collector into swaying off course to a new arena. Good thing I have my copy of the Eglit book under a time lock otherwise I would be using it for a check list to aquire one of each. CAN you imagine what it would be like to find an elongated half dollar, or trade dollar not to mention the Hawaiian half! I have to go now because I need to make room for elongated coins.
  4. <font size=3> Easy question, where is the best place (your opinion) to buy and/or sell coins. Not so easy answer--I know you can write a book to include all of variables but just want to know where the users of Coin People like to acquire or dispose of their coins. What and/or where is most enjoyable, profitable, fun, best or worst experiance. Either online, in person, coin shows, pawn shops etc. My focus would be in the US but I would invite all to post their experiances. Note to moderators: if this post is in the wrong place, please by all means move it
  5. Ok then, how about a trial strike in an off metal or perhaps its just a bogus or unauthorized coin. I imagine you would have to compare it side to side with a known good coin to get you on the right trail. Just food for thought.
  6. Well it could be silver, just take a look at the attached photo and you will see what I mean. I have seen silver really off color to the extent that you would swear that its not when looking at it. Also how accurate is your scale? The weight is not that far off from what a KM26 should weigh.
  7. <font size=2>A big thanks to "constanius" for finding this info! I try to do much of my research myself but all I came up with was incorrect or assumptions. As constanius states this is pretty definitive! Now to add to this post, in addition to the two medals previously listed I had one other presidential medal that really stuck out as having a different finish. At first I thought it was struck on the wrong planchet material but the info provided above now points to the fact that this medal is actually a 24k gold plated version of Martin Van Buren (808G). The medal was real dirty and abused so I committed the ultimate collecting sin and cleaned it. I will keep it and put it in an album for future reference.<br> Wonderful information and Thanks!
  8. <font size=3>OK, now I know that this subject might be a little mundane but I need some help.<br>I just aquired what appears to be two US Presidential Peace medals but with a twist.<br>These are the small 1 5/16 inch bronze type but with a "D" mint mark on them.<br> The two are Zachary Taylor and Warren Harding.<br>My Question is does anyone have any reference materials or specific information that these indeed were struck at the Denver mint?<br>I see on other coin reference web sites there is some discussion but I didn't find anything definitive.<br>They sure look authentic to me---But who knows? <br>Thanks in advance for those who reply!
  9. Nice! Only in brass and gild or where there other metals as well? And may I ask what reference books or materials do you use to identify medals such as these?
  10. Roger

    Roger

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  11. <center><font size=3>This and other fine coins for sale on my USA Coinbook Page<br>Click Link Below Photos<p><o:p></o:p><o:p></o:p><img src=http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/0/2/4/5/7/0/webimg/621037072_o.jpg><p><o:p></o:p><img src=http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/0/2/4/5/7/0/webimg/621037038_o.jpg><p><o:p></o:p><A HREF=http://www.usacoinbook.com/members/RLWilsonCoins
  12. What a behemoth! Nice comparison of the medal vs. photo.
  13. Isn't it cool to do the research on numismatic items? The chase for information, facts, theory, or even speculation is almost as fun as the chase for the medal or coin itself. Such a wonderful hobby! Congrats on the aquisition and new theory.
  14. Thanks, I don't know the mintage however the "White Medal" version seems to come up for auction more than the bronze. After a little research I found out that the Johnson workshop was destroyed by air raids in 1943 so the number may never be known. NGC grades these so a clue may be found in their population report IF they report medals? Here is a description of the Medal: Obverse: bust of Columbus facing left, Cristoforo Colombo around, all within circular central depression. Indian princess left grasps hand of Europa at right. Above all is the Western Hemisphere with Columbus' first voyage route marked. Spread eagle at the bottom. Reverse: the fruits of Columbus' discoveries, personification of Civilization at center surrounded by genii, and Indian warriors below. At left is a coastline with Washington in distance. The outer rim is made of coats of arms of all the U.S. states* and Roman numeral dates 1892 and 1492. *Edit---The reference guides have sometimes listed these as coat of arms of the US States--however close examination of the medal suggests that these are actually Coats of Arms for the Countries of the Americas as I have Identified two South American Coats of Arms. With more research I can probably firm this up.
  15. <font size=3><b>Not often does your personal numismatic Holy Grail drop into your lap but it just happened to me. 7 years ago I bid too low on a bronze Italian medal struck for the 1893 Columbian Exposition (Eglit 107). After missing out on my first purchase attempt I have been looking for one ever since. Then last week I stumbled across this Eglit 106 up for auction. (The 107 is a reduced version of the 106). I never dreamed that an Eglit 106 would come up for sale so this time it had to be mine! And so here it is. <p><p><img src=http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/0/2/4/5/7/0/webimg/618513878_o.jpg><p><img src=http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/0/2/4/5/7/0/webimg/618513906_o.jpg><p><p> Eglit 106—1893 Columbian Exposition Size: 102mm, Weight 467 grams Material: Bronze Designed: Lodovico Pogliaghi Engraver: Modello A. Cappuccio Struck By: Stefano Johnson of Milano Eglit states that these were issued in Milan but I interpret that as being struck in Milan and then shipped to the Exposition to be sold as a retail item.
  16. Question: Why isn't there a "Cameo" notation on the label? Not all Proofs or Proof Like are cameo and this one is obviously CAMEO. Very nice coin and nice photos.
  17. I would like to share my new aquisition of a medal like reported here by Tifibunny. One correction I would like to offer is that is is the sexcentennial (600 years--1291 to 1891) and not the 700th anniversary as listed. Tifibunny's coin looks to be in better condition but I am very happy to have this one. Specs: 50mm x 3.8mm, 15.4g
  18. A few other notes to the excellent advice already given. I would suggest a few books to refer to: 1. ANA Grading Standards for US Coins, Bressett/Bowers and 2. Collecting Rare Coins for Profit, Bowers. I am not saying that these should be treated as revered bibles but suggest they may give some insight to grading, and collecting for pleasure/investment. To add to the saying "buy the coin and not the holder" I would add "buy the book before the coin" as well. As far as your 15 power, relegate it to the pocket for most inspection and pick up a QUAILITY 3 to 7 power. I personally use an Eschenbach 3+6. It has two lens that when stacked together provide for a total of 9 power. While not cheap it has great optics and it has served me well for inspecting coins. The larger the lens diameter the better. The 3 to 7 comes right out of the ANA grading standards book. The higher power is usually used to note minute die differences etc. I also use a standard stereo microscope and a digital 200x camera for research but you may want to leave those to the advanced collector or researcher. Really, the best advise was given by KoRnholio above----collect what you like and if the investment works out it's a bonus.
  19. "A Guide Book of Buffalo and Jefferson Nickels" by Bowers with a forward by Fivaz. This is one of the Whitman red book series---volume 8. Also there is a small section in Walter Breen's Complete Encyclopedia of US and Colonial Coins. Besides the regular red book thats all I have (at this time anyway)
  20. <b>2012 P die variety?—Benjamin Harrison dollar<br>This is what I believe to be an over polished or abraded die creating a gap between Liberty’s first ray and the gown. Note that rays 1 and 2 are weak. This is not a filled die as I have found a few examples and they all have the same die diagnostics. Not a light strike either as the die goes as deep or deeper into the planchet than that of a normal strike. Picture 1 shows the weak ray, picture 2 while a little out of focus clearly shows the gap.<p><img src=http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/0/2/4/5/7/0/webimg/606657756_o.jpg><p><p><img src=http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/0/2/4/5/7/0/webimg/606657727_o.jpg>
  21. I read somewhere that the cent was donated by an employee working on that section of the Odyssey.
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