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    North Central Kentucky
  • Interests
    Silver US Coins, Building US Type Sets, Occasionally waffling into Exonumia, Fractional Gold, Earlier Mexican and South American Coinage

Roger's Achievements

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  1. For an interesting read about counterstamped coins and in particular coins counterstamped by a Dr. Wilkins, read Q. David Bowers book titled "The Strange Career of Dr. Wilkins" first published in 1987
  2. Hello and welcome!. Interesting post. If you could post pictures of the register and tokens it would be benificial to the readers. Also if you haven't already, you may want to additionallly post this in exonumia where the tokens and medals are discussed.
  3. On the reverse (side with the date I guess?), lower left quadrant of coin, bright stuff shown as lighter color.I guess it's silver or silver colored wash of some sort. I think this would be right as the original coins (1/4 Thaler) of the era were silver and the maker is trying to emulate it?
  4. This is what I believe to be a pocket watch FOB. I'm thinking that this went on the end of a chain and through a button hole in a Victorian mans vest. It looks to be a copy of an Austrian 1/4 Thaler. Marked very discretely "Lauer" and "Nurngb" Measures 33mm in diameter, 2.5mm thick at the rim and was "Silvered". Some of the silvering is still present. Please present additional info if you have it---Thanks
  5. I don't have a clue but some of the others will be along soon to help. If you can post the diameter and weight it might help in making an I.D.
  6. This fellow had quite the proboscis!
  7. My Guess, and it's only a guess---Gas bubbles trapped between the copper plate and zinc core which is common place on this type of cent--or--Machine doubling which happens at the time the coin is struck.
  8. Bill has a post that includes this set here: http://www.coinpeople.com/index.php?/topic/30920-1909-alaska-yukon-pacific-exposition/page__fromsearch__1 Also this set is featured in a book that Bill co-authored with Jeff Shevlin titled "Discover the World of Charbneau So-Called Dollars." I consider this book an excellent read / reference and is part of my exonumia book collection.
  9. Oh, I can see this is a fun thread with great discussion! Bill, on your AYSE set you lost very little in cracking that set out, mainly because you have the box and the fact that they were featured in your excellent book! As far as methods of crackology I use the Vise method, with safety glasses AND Nitrile exam gloves (powder-free). Use a large clean vise that is securely mounted with a well lubricated spindle. Applying gradual pressure to the sides of the slab will usually result in the halves separating enough to extract the coin. Sometimes as Bill mentioned, a screwdriver is needed to help remove portions of the slab. I always use the gloves just in case I need to grab the coin if it decides to leave the slab unexpectantly. Why do i remove coins from slabs you ask--For example, I am putting a presentation US Type set album together. I have elected to spend lets say $100 to $200 for each coin in order to reach the desired grades and or variety needed. You noted the presentation comment above. I am assembling a premium set that includes a 1853 arrows and rays half dollar, a 1931s Lincoln cent and so on. I am trying to purchase the majority of them raw but I won't let a good deal go by because it's in a slab. By shopping around at the major shows you should be able to buy somewhere in the middle of the wholesale and retail price even for the slabbed ones. Why do I slab coins---1. Sometimes I slab a coin if it has a high enough value and will be placed in my collection for long term storage. I feel a slab gives it an edge if the storage conditions aren't perfect from a conservation point of view. I place my better coins w/slabs in archival sleeves and boxes prior to storage at the bank. 2. I also slab some coins / medals that I am de-acquisitioning from my collection that need a good marketing strategy. Usually these are higher value coins subject to counterfeiting or values that are grade sensitive and are being sold on the internet for example. I don't want my customer debating after the sale the grade or condition and the possibility of swapping out the coin and sending back a substitute. Well, they could debate it anyway but it does carry a little weight in my favor. Never sell your coins you say? Well it may not be you, but rest assured that your coins will be sold someday. It is best to keep a good inventory and instruction on who to contact if you cannot handle the affair yourself. I have instructions to contact one of my coin buddies to assist with the liquidation and not to arbitrarily sell off to just anyone (including my buddy if you know what I mean). Why do I care at that point? Well, my heirs would be rewarded for having put up with a lot of coin antics such as coin magazines and books laying around, having to share the library with tons of numismatic literature, coin shows, storage issues and the like. You can use this to your advantage if subtle hints are dropped now and then as to the value of your collection and what they might receive if collection is sold wisely.
  10. Roger

    Steel Cents

    A Guide Book of United States Coins 2013 (aka Redbook) Pg 22, Mints and Mintmarks----- "Prior to 1996 all dies for United States coins were made at the Philadelphia Mint. Some dies are now made at the Denver Mint. Dies for use at other mints are made with the appropriate mintmarks before they are shipped to those mints. Because this was a hand operation prior to 1985, the exact positioning and size of the mintmarks may vary slightly, depending on where and how deeply the punches were impressed."
  11. Has anyone used any of the Haug Custom Holders? I am thinking of obtaining one for my large (102mm) Chrisoforo Colombo medal (Eglit 106) and would like to hear from anyone that has used them. 1. Are they easy to use? 2. How is the medal or coin supported (centered) etc.? Thanks, and here is the website if anyone is interested http://www.coinholdersonline.com
  12. This looks to be an example of a "dryer" coin. A coin that was left in a clothes dryer or similar machine that rotates. The coin rolls and rolls in the machine until the edge looks like the pictures above.
  13. I think it is ok to buy reproductions and lesser quality coins IF you know that you are doing so. I have purchased numerous such items knowingly for study. If you are scammed into such activites then not so OK. I purchased two US Trade Dollars at auction knowing quite well that they might be fakes (they were). But they are going to stay right in my collection as study pieces. I know--crap to some, study pieces for me.
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