Working on my type set

[Vfox]

I see a missing type coin, hmm.

[Trantor_3]

It's no longer missing

 

1853 III cent silver added

1928-S Standing Liberty Quarter added

[Trantor_3]

Updated

[Art]

Your set is really taking shape. Great going.

[Art1.2]

96W Roosevelt is a great coin to add. Rather low mintage but still available at a decent price. Of course the whole Roosevelt dime series is terribly under priced.

[Trantor_3]

2010 "D" cent added, a new type for me Can anyone me fill me in on how this type is normally called? And what its composition is?

[Art1.2]

It's zinc with a copper coating. It's often called "The Shield" cent or Lincoln cent w/shield.

[Trantor_3]

Thanks Art

[Vfox]

Heh, the gap in time between coins is even more than mine.

 

Have you been gathering state and national parks quarters? I don't know how well they fit in a type set because each is different but a nice example of you're favorite design in clad, silver, and proof might be a nice edition.

[Trantor_3]

Heh, the gap in time between coins is even more than mine.

 

Have you been gathering state and national parks quarters? I don't know how well they fit in a type set because each is different but a nice example of you're favorite design in clad, silver, and proof might be a nice edition.

 

Yeah, quite some time between the fore last coins and the last coin.

My collecting has been a few years in "hybernation" due to changed family circumstances (positive changes!!!!) and I'm slowly getting back into business. Adding new coins to my collection is not really happening though, I'm now as a stage that I'm thoroughly documenting my collection, determining what I actually have.

 

I do have about two third of the statehood quarters, most clad, grades XF - UNC and I have 5 proof silver ones. No park quarters yet.

These are indeed a bit "awkard" for a type collection.

[rsraghead]

Sounds like you are well on your way, even if you have slowed down

[Vfox]

I can always help you out with the newer coins like the state and parks if you just want to fill holes with circulated pieces. Why not post a list here? Or email me. Just pay face for the coins and shipping when I gather enough to warrant shipment.

 

As for collecting... It's been a lot of changes for me too, not all positive however. But I have finally started to get finances and whatnot back together and will hopefully be buying again soon.

[rsraghead]

I'll help with what I can as far as fillers.

[thedeadpoint]

Welcome back, V!

[Vfox]

Welcome back, V!

Thank you.

[Steve D'Ippolito]

How to work state quarters into a typeset:

 

The book I got started with when I did my typeset is by Q. David Bowers, and he distinguishes between silver and clad, so he assigned every silver proof for each state a type number, and every clad piece a type number as well, for 100 total state quarters. 112 if you throw in the DC and Territories issues. The book was actually published midway through the state quarters series, and he left a substantial numbering gap between denominations, for future developments. The state quarters ran from 201 through 300, with the DC and territories not known to him at the time, but they clearly would have been 301-312. The problem is, Mr. Bowers started the halves at 401. So his numbering system is already broken, because there will be 112 national forest quarters, and possibly another 112 after that (the law gives the treasury and/or mint the option to repeat the program, albeit with new national forests, wildlife refuges and seashores for states too benighted to have any national parks).

 

This is a large part of the reason I decided my type set would span 1800-1964; I really did not want to deal with a set that was over half state quarters, I did not want to have to deal with the issue of whether a silver Delaware quarter was a different type from a clad one (and it would be, if I were at all consistent!. Running from 1792 to 1964 I identified 115 types and subtypes in silver, nickel and copper, of which 97 were issued 1800 or later. I numbered the 115 types sequentially, then invented a second system that you can parse and determine what the coin is, e.g., A1 is the first half cent type--which in turn has three subtypes, A1a, A1b, and A1c--and A1c had a weight reduction in 1795 so there's an A1c1 and A1c2. Those are 1-4 on my sequential numbering. B1 is the first large cent type, and only has two subtypes B1a ("Chain ameri") and B1b ("Chain America")--sequential numbers 8 and 9, etc. It ends with silver dollars running from 106-114 M1 through M7b and the Trade Dollar being type 115 (N1).

[rsraghead]

Well I still have to figure mine out, what book you using?

[Trantor_3]

Thank you Steve, for your explanation.

 

I am considering to leave the statehood quarters and the parker quarters out of my type set. I will try to get one of each (each state/park , both P and D mint mark) and make that a separate collection.

 

To Robert, if your question was to me: I do not use any albums like Dansco etc. I have a Krause catalog and a Red Book and internet that I use for reference material. Other numismatic books about non-Dutch coins are hard to get and/or rather expensive in this part of the world.

[rsraghead]

Thats what I was asking, thanx

[Steve D'Ippolito]

I am using "A Guide Book of United States Type Coins", part of the red book series on specialized topics. I felt free to add or subtract types once I saw what he was doing, though. For instance I decided the recessed date on the standing liberty quarter was a new subtype; he ignores that.

 

I also consider weight and composition changes significant. So instead of the usual treatment of seated liberty coins where pre-1853 coins are one type, the arrows are a second type, and the post arrows coins are considered the first type again, I treat them as a distinct type. Also all silver coinage was altered in 1837--the silver content remained the same but some of the copper was removed, to change from .8924 to .9000 fine. (Fortunately this happened before any 1837 coins were minted, so looking at the date tells you what sub-type it is.

 

I have three more super-expensive coins to go, having purchased one already (draped bust/heraldic eagle half dime); they are the draped bust heraldic eagle dollar, the no drapery half dollar, and (drumroll) more expensive than the other three super expensive ones put together: the original 1836 Gobrecht dollar. The lions share of issues that are left are seated liberty coins of one sort or another. But then again, I am still missing the 1921 Peace Dollar.

[rsraghead]

nice

[Art1.2]

I often wish that I had started my collection as a US Type Set vs. series of coins like Indian Head Cents. I have a Dansco US Type Set album and really enjoy it.

[rsraghead]

I mainly do series, mostly British

[Vfox]

I often wish that I had started my collection as a US Type Set vs. series of coins like Indian Head Cents. I have a Dansco US Type Set album and really enjoy it.

Much to my mother's dismay I started a type set instead of finishing my Lincoln cent series. Even at 8 years old or younger I didn't like seeing the same thing again and again. I started with a large cent and it all went down hill from there.

[Trantor_3]

I started originally with a serie of our cents, found in circulation, when I was a young kid. When I had them all, I switched to the next denomination, the stuiver (5 cent) and then 10 cents. Later, when I had more money to spend, it became the other denominations as well, one of each year and when available, all varieties.

 

At some point I decided to collect "one of each" form the countries I (had) visited. This ended up in my type sets, where I want "one of each" where different compositions, different mint marks, different designs and varieties all count as a different type. But this only for foreign coins.