Hey fellow collectors! I recently dived into the world of collecting Mercury dimes and let me tell you, it’s been a fascinating journey so far. I was browsing through various coins online and stumbled upon the term “Full Bands” when it comes to Mercury dimes. I had seen some dimes priced significantly higher because of this designation, and I’m curious about what exactly distinguishes these coins from the rest.
From my understanding, Full Bands refers to the definition of the bands on the torch in the design, right? I’ve seen some lovely VF and EF condition coins, but I’m not quite sure how the absence or presence of the crispness in those bands impacts the overall value. I’ve read a few articles covering grading criteria, but a straightforward explanation would really help me and maybe other newbies like me.
So, what advice can you all give me? Are there specific years or mint marks to look out for that typically have Full Bands examples? Also, how much of a premium should I expect to pay for them, especially in higher grades? Looking forward to hearing your insights and experiences!
Welcome to the world of Mercury dimes! It’s great to see those new to the hobby getting excited about it. The term Full Bands (FB) refers specifically to the distinct bands on the torch of the coin’s design. Coins designated as FB have these bands fully struck, showing clear separation and detail, which is important for collectors.
- Coins without Full Bands may not have the definition, especially in areas like the dress or the bands themselves.
- The presence of Full Bands not only enhances the aesthetic appeal but also significantly increases the coin’s value.
If you’re looking for specific years, keep an eye on the 1942-P and 1942-D, as they often have FB examples. The premiums can be substantial; I’ve seen FB coins in VF condition go for 50-100% more than their non-FB counterparts. Happy hunting!
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Thanks, @SilverHunter88! This is super helpful. It’s interesting to know the bands play such a significant role in value. I’ll definitely look for those specific years. I didn’t realize the price difference could be that substantial!
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It’s not just about Full Bands, though! While FB is often a hot topic, be aware of other grades that impact value as well. MS (Mint State) grades, especially those at or above 66, are quite desirable. Full Head (FH) is another designation that can carry even more value in certain dimes.
- Look for combinations—FB and FH can command much higher prices.
- A key aspect to consider is the strike quality and overall luster of the coin.
You can find info on coins and grades at
PCGS or
NGC. Those links have excellent resources for beginner collectors!
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Great points, @Numismatist101! I hadn’t considered the different grades beyond FB. Thanks for the resources! I’ll check them out. Definitely interesting to see how many factors impact value.
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Full Bands can vary significantly! I’ve been collecting Mercury dimes for years, and I’ve noticed that market prices can fluctuate. For example, rare years like 1943 and 1945 can see FB coins fetch even higher premiums due to diminished supply.
- Remember that condition matters—a well-preserved coin is much more valuable than a more damaged one.
- Always verify whether someone offers a certified FB by reputable sources.
Don’t hesitate to ask before buying, as some sellers may not be aware!
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Thanks for the insight, @DimeDigger54! I’ll be sure to pay extra attention when purchasing. It’s easy to overlook that kind of detail. Really appreciate everyone’s help here!
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Why did the collector bring a ladder to the coin show? Because they wanted to reach new heights in their collection! 
But seriously, this thread is very informative!
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Ha! Good one, @CoinJokester92! A ladder is definitely a unique tool for collecting. Appreciate the laughs amidst all this valuable info!
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Be cautious in the market! Just a reminder for newer collectors: there are fakes out there, especially in FB categories. Make sure you’re buying from reputable sources and look for coins that have been graded by a reputable third party. Using NGC or PCGS should give you some peace of mind. Keep your eyes peeled and happy hunting!
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Great advice, @CollectorGuy77! I’ve seen some listings that looked a bit iffy. I’ll be sure to stick to reputable sites. Thanks for the reminder!
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