Which Do You Prefer To Collect.....

[28Plain]

Depending on the type, XF or better is what I prefer. Barbers, Victorian low reliefs, SLQs, French Indochina Piastres and fractionals all have detail which is completely lost below a VF and is sometimes partly compromised at that grade.

[The_Cave_Troll]

It's circulated for me! I enjoy completeness more than pure beauty.

[Ætheling]

Depending on the type,  XF or better is what I prefer.  Barbers, Victorian  low reliefs, SLQs, French Indochina Piastres and fractionals all have detail which is completely lost below a VF and is sometimes partly compromised at that grade.

 

 

You mean Victorian high reliefs? The 1840s and 1850s issues in particular before they started lowering the relief.

 

Looking at SLQ to me they look pretty awful in even EF. They appear to wear real bad. I think SLQ's would have to be UNC minimum for me. So damned expensive though.

 

 

Modern coinage in extreme low relief can even be acceptable in F. I think it all depends on the relief.

 

Coins from the 17th/18th century tend to be in very high relief thus why i like them in high grades, 19th/early 20th in high relief (likewise needs the high grades), then by the mid 20th onwards the relief goes downhill faster than a Citreon 2CV with no brakes trying to go up it. So the grades become less of an issue with more modern coinage.

[ageka]

Definitely not this one

 

http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...8316146560&rd=1

[28Plain]

You mean Victorian high reliefs? The 1840s and 1850s issues in particular before they started lowering the relief.

 

Looking at SLQ to me they look pretty awful in even EF. They appear to wear real bad. I think SLQ's would have to be UNC minimum for me. So damned expensive though.

Modern coinage in extreme low relief can even be acceptable in F. I think it all depends on the relief.

 

Coins from the 17th/18th century tend to be in very high relief thus why i like them in high grades, 19th/early 20th in high relief (likewise needs the high grades), then by the mid 20th onwards the relief goes downhill faster than a Citreon 2CV with no brakes trying to go up it. So the grades become less of an issue with more modern coinage.

 

No, I meant the low relief Victorians. they lose a lot of their detail with little wear while the high reliefs have more metal in the same detailed areas which make them more resistant to wear. An early Gothic Florin in VF still has a relatively high level of facial feature remaining even past the point where the loop of the braid is worn off. The low relief young heads lose the facial details with little wear, by comparison with the high relief young head halfcrowns.

 

Now, SLQ's are very beautiful in XF. It's just that so many people try to claim XF on a VF coin. There's a good example of an XF in the coin grading challenge archives. An XF should have all the toes remaining on the foot of Lady Liberty. The design loses detail with very little wear. XF SLQ's by my standards are sold as AU's by some folks.

[Snoopy2005]

I started my hobby before Christmas when I found a blank penny. Since my little discovery, I got hooked. I realized we carry everyday a big chunk of history in our own pockets. I like particular the circulated ones.......

[Mila_cent]

The majority of my coins are US and circulated. However I do have 2 (recently come to own) Proofs-- 1971-S Ike and 1979-S SBA type I

I prefer circulated. But if a Proof or Uncirculated would pass my way and the price is affordable OR I really, really WANT it.. I will get it

 

Now, since I've started to store my coins in albums it doesn't matter what grade it is, as long as the date is noticeable.

[Ray]

There ya go Mila-Cent. If you like it buy it and enjoy it

[Metalman]

My collection has a large percentage of circulated coins, But I do add BU coins whenever the opportunity and funds come together.

 

Rick

[crystalk64]

I prefer unc. or proof in modern coins and when it comes to classics or foreign coins it is take whatever I can get!!!

[Michigan]

Higher grade circulated, my favorite grade is VF. Coins in that grade usually

show enough detail to be a nice looking coin but are not terribly expensive.

 

Sometimes you have to make some adjustments. Buffalo nickels are a good

example. The jump in value between Fine and Very Fine is huge on

a number of dates.

 

Lower grade (good, very good) for many series just look worn out and

unattractive.

 

Unc. coins and slabbing have their place but for me the ever shifting grading standards and game playing that goes on in that area just does not appeal to me.

 

 

I have one slab, a 1938-D Buffalo nickel a PCGS MS64 in one of the older

slabs. I think I paid around $30 for it a decade or more ago. I wonder what it

is worth now?

 

I bought it just to say I owned one slab I guess.

[Sir Sisu]

I prefer AU/Unc for the modern mass produced coinage that I take out from circulation. Of course, if I cannot find one, then a lower grade will have to do, but seldom will I go buy a modern circulating piece in Unc. I am much looser with my expectations with pre-WWII coins in this category.

 

For older coins that I purchase, it depends on the reason for why I am purchasing it:

-If it is part of a date set then I can go as low as F (though I try for VF-XF)

-If it is because I just like the design, then I aim for minimum XF.

-If it is a commem, then I usually hold out for AU/UNC.

[thedeadpoint]

Whatever looks beautiful and that I can afford : x

[echizento]

I like circulated coins but they should be in fine and above condition. I don't go out of my way to find uncirculated coins but when they come along it's a plus.

 

Ron

[ClearwaterCoins]

I prefer proof or uncirculated modern coins. For old coins I will usually take what I can get.