Rhino Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 I've looked at Konros and recent ebay auctions and noticed that the 1922 silver 1 Rouble sells for significantly more than the 1921 1 Rouble... but the mintage figures for the 1922 Rouble (according to Krause, at least) are higher than the 1921 Rouble. Can anyone explain the reason behind the drastically increased price of the 1922 Rouble? Examples of recent auctions of 1922: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=2&campid=5335826004&toolid=10001&customid=&ext=110609798138&item=120653106847 http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=2&campid=5335826004&toolid=10001&customid=&ext=110609798138&item=260698642279 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKB Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 1921 was always crap. Except for a few rare varieties, which I did not even know existed until recently. 1922 was always more interesting. PL more so than AG. I remember a collector who was trading 1 1922 for 6 1921. I guess the mintage figures are screwed up, which is very normal for Krause specifically, and Russian numismatics in general. A large number of rubles reported as struck in 1922 could have been dated 1921. (IMXO) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhino Posted December 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 1921 was always crap. Except for a few rare varieties, which I did not even know existed until recently. 1922 was always more interesting. PL more so than AG. I remember a collector who was trading 1 1922 for 6 1921. I guess the mintage figures are screwed up, which is very normal for Krause specifically, and Russian numismatics in general. A large number of rubles reported as struck in 1922 could have been dated 1921. (IMXO) What are these 1921 varieties you mentioned? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKB Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 There are 3 major varieties of 1921. 1. dot; 2. half dot(the beads line on rsfsr side ends in a full dot or half dot) half dot is a bit better 3. round coma. The third is the nuts... Here is a half dot on 1922: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=2&campid=5335826004&toolid=10001&customid=&ext=110609798138&item=260698642279 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gxseries Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 1922 rubles have always been more expensive than 1921 rubles. Mintage figures don't mean a thing as it doesn't keep track of historical events that occured in a mint such as the 1839 Borodin ruble where a lot have been kept and melted down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexbq2 Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 There are 3 major varieties of 1921. 1. dot; 2. half dot(the beads line on rsfsr side ends in a full dot or half dot) half dot is a bit better Didn't know about the half dot, and omnicoins shrinks images down too much so I'm not sure which one I have. I'll have to check next time I visit my collection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKB Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 need better quality photo. Tried close up - it blurs too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhino Posted December 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 Alex, from that photo it looks like a full dot... not seeing any indication of anything past that last distinct bright dot. By the way, did you also pay those prices for your 1922? I mean did that piece fall in a range of $200-300? Or was that acquired years ago? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexbq2 Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 Alex, from that photo it looks like a full dot... not seeing any indication of anything past that last distinct bright dot. By the way, did you also pay those prices for your 1922? I mean did that piece fall in a range of $200-300? Or was that acquired years ago? Got it over a year ago, for a bit under $200. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKB Posted December 8, 2010 Report Share Posted December 8, 2010 The last dot is a bit too far to be a full dot variety... (I looked at mine) There is also an edge variety, where the weight is listed in grams... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhino Posted January 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 How can you tell the difference between a 1921 UNC and a 1921 Proof? For example: That is a Proof from Heritage... but what are the definitive diagnostics that make it proof? This is my coin below: What differences should I look for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKB Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 This is not a proof coin (IMXO) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lennysky Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 BKB, does the same apply to 50 Kopek pieces? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKB Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 What?! I spoke only about the particular coin shown. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhino Posted January 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 This is not a proof coin (IMXO) How are you able to distinguish between the two grades? I'm not disagreeing at all, I just want to learn where the differences are... it's easier with Nicholas II coinage, for example, to see proof vs. unc, but here for some reason it's more challenging for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKB Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Proof is not a grade, it is a type. There should be a trace of double or triple strike visible at the edge, where the excess metal flows out between the ring and the die. I do not see it here. In general, proof coin must be struck with polished dies on a polished planchette, and is minted by "striking" on a medal press with multiple "strikes". The edge is also polished. It is very easy to tell if the coin is proof, when you hold it in your hands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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