Vfox

As far as I know they are full coins. They are paper thin however, they remind me a lot of the US silver trime.

Two tiny tiny Ottoman Empire coins. I really don't know jack about these. If I'm holding them right, or what they say. But...they were $3 each so I thought they'd make a nice oddball item. Any info on these would be awesome.

If it hasn't come to pass yet add me to the list Art. I haven't done one of these since like... 2009? Lol

Nice Bohemond III piece, Vfox!

 

Here's one I used to own, if it gives you any more info.

Nice, that's quite a bit better than what I got. And yes that helps quite a bit on the info.

No real reason other than they just kinda spoke to me. Lol

Spanish Netherlands

Don't know much about this one, neat though.

Got a few new pieces today as a birthday present to myself, lol.

Roman silver

The application and type of solder is not contemporary to the period. It's likely from the early to mid 1900's.

Yep I still do metalworking. Not as often as I'd like but I do it now and then.

I'm hoping to salvage all of them but it'll be a challenge because of the temperature that this junk solder melts at. Basically I need to flow it off the pieces by introducing an extremely hot solder pick to it when it's molten. The solder always goes to the hottest point.

Got a oddball thing off eBay this week. Just have a look, lol.

And yes, I will be trying to remove the pot metal solder in my studio. Lol

Am I missing something? I don't see an image or even a description.

Eventually I'll have a FH one of them, lol. Very nice.

Honestly I like slabs in the way they protect your coins. I hate slabs in the way they are seemingly arbitrarily graded and the grade changes depending on the individual and the pedigree of the coin. Also, you can't get a feel for a coin in a plastic tomb.

I'd say the best thing to do is find coins that are either known to hold value only when stabbed (likely newer coins), or if you have any questionable coins like early Spanish 8 reales, Chinese silver or Russian silver. The only reason I purposefully buy slabs are when it's a highly counterfeited coin. And even then only from a reputable dealer since the slabs themselves have also been counterfeited. Lol

Jeesh, I haven't gotten a coin in the mail in so long, lol. I need to get on that.

They are one of the more counterfeited coins in the hobby. A picture would be a great help in identifying a counterfeit or legitimate coin. However, it would need to be checked out in person by a reputable coin dealer to be absolutely certain.

One of the more crude fakes, normally made of a junky base metal. Still a fun piece for a kid but definitely counterfeit.

Yep, definitely a counterfeit. Not only what DF pointed out, but I'm sure the weight is also wrong because that's not even silver. It's that junk base metal these counterfeits are made out of. That junk metal also shows a grainy texture and is almost always a weak shallow strike because it's rather hard, likely containing nickel or made of steel. Check out our counterfeit section for the guide I tossed together a few years ago... Which I still need to update. Lol

It looks like it has an unusual surface texture. It may have been struck through a very thin layer of grease. It doesn't really change the value but makes it an interesting coin none the less.

Oh I've been skulking around for years, I just don't own a real computer anymore so I don't spend much time on forums. But I'm around.

Picked up a new coin for the 8 reale collection recently. Just waiting for it to arrive. Also has it really been so many years since I've updated this? Jeesh, lol. I have gotten plenty of other coins... I should image them... Meh.

510 years or so, I never would have imagined we could have gotten this far. I really do hope we dip into the 1490's though at least.

If you wanted I'm sure we all have a coin that has an interesting story tied to it. Maybe not our favorite but definitely noteworthy.

Type: Draped bust dollar, heraldic eagle reverse

Face value: $1

Year: 1802/1 overdate

Real (retail) value: $1000-1800 depending on which guide you pay attention to.

Country: USA

State: Pennsylvania

Where I got it: York, Pennsylvania at my local coin shop when I was a teen.

Why it's special: This was a dream coin when I was a little kid. I never thought I'd own one. Now I have the half cent to the dollar coin of this style and it really all started since I was able to get this coin.

Oldest? When I worked in in a grocery store I found a civil war token masquerading as a penny. Crusty and black, it was in rough shape but there it was. As for regular coinage? I've found a few Indian head cents and "V" nickels over the past decade or so in my change. I've also come across about 3 or 4 blanks, a cent, dime, and a quarter or two. No date obviously, lol.

 

With all due respect to everyone here who guessed at how to remove the solder, they are all dead wrong. Do not attempt to heat the area of the solder with an iron. When coins are soldered in jewelry applications, the method is brazing and it is done with a torch or in an oven. The solder attached to a silver coin is almost always silver and is almost always hard solder, or .800fine. Soldering silver requires heating the entire piece to solder flow temperature because silver is the best conductor of heat of any metal, and heat sinking is difficult on anything other than light wire or shank stock. Removing solder from a piece of .900 fine silver whether it's a coin or a piece of jewelry should only be done by a qualified silversmith.

 

Also, be aware that heating the coin to the stage of red heat necessary for causing the solder to flow so that it can be vaccumed up with a bulb will also cause the copper in the alloy to bloom and the coin will then have to be pickled in a heated acid solution to return it to its silver color. Glazing the coin with a boric acid/ethanol solution will reduce the copper bloom, but will also have to be removed by pickling. Removing the solder is going to reduce the eye appeal of the rest of the coin which doesn't have the solder on it.

 

You should send it off to be restored or leave it alone, but trying to melt the hard solder with a soldering iron will not work and will cause discoloration.

I second this. Having worked with jewelry for quite a few years now I'd advise leaving it alone or sending it to a professional. Either way your coin will always be "damaged". Keep in mind why you want want the solder removed... If it's value, then don't bother. If it's sentimental reasons, then go for it but remember it was jewelry for a reason. Maybe the person appreciated the coin so much they wanted to always wear it?