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Russel

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About Russel

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  1. Another, although a little more subtle.
  2. I took several photographs of a cent with different aperture settings in an attempt to determine what f-stop produced the sharpest photograph. I placed the cent at an angle to eliminate focus; depth of field would cover is entire range from close to far, the center of which should be in good focus. Anyway, to get to the subject of striations, I noticed that sometimes the lines are a quite subtle. In this photograph you can see the "flow" markings on the surface of the field to the left, but also notice the vertical striations on the right at Lincoln's collar.
  3. Looking at the image attributes, it appears that you used F5 for your aperture setting. Focusing that close with such a fast aperture means a shallow depth of field. Do you use F5 to shallow the depth of field so that the slab casing is more out of focus? I frequently shoot macro photographs at F16 to F32 if the lens,a 60mm macro, is within 4 to 10 inches in order to maximize depth of field. Granted coins are quite flat, I find myself using F8 at 1:1 when photographing coins.
  4. I certainly believe that it is genuine, but I am no expert. (I now know that this thread title should be cents, or at least pennies, not pennys!) Here is a photograph of the reverse.
  5. OK, I think I understand what you mean. The problem, as I understand it, occurs a shutter speeds higher than 1/60 of a second. That explains why I have never encountered a problem with it. When I have used fluorescent lighting for photography I use a fairly small aperture F8 being the fastest, and quite often F16, F22, or F36. That requires me to use a slow shutter speed and a tripod. I appears that slower shutter speeds don't have a white balance problem with fluorescent light. Thank you for the information! It is alway good to learn something new. Here is a link I found: Problem with
  6. If the light source is consistent then the white balance should also be consistent. When using artificial light I use flourescent exclusively. I've never noticed any shift in white balance. I have run across inconsistent white balance if there is sunlight as well as fluorescent in the image. If two light sources with different color temperatures are illuminating the subject then is it practically impossible to get a consistent white balance. Did the gymnasium you spoke of have any sunlight shining into it?
  7. If the light source is consistent then the white balance should also be consistent. When using artificial light I use flourescent exclusively. I've never noticed any shift in white balance. I have run across inconsistent white balance if there is sunlight as well as fluorescent in the image. If two light sources with different color temperatures are illuminating the subject then is it practically impossible to get a consistent white balance. Did the gymnasium you spoke of have any sunlight shining into it?
  8. I don't concern myself with ownership. Photography is a hobby for me. At this point I prefer to leave my photographs without watermarks, copyrights, or signatures. I really don't like the word "modify" for adjustments to make the photograph look more natural. Although modify is correct, I try to set the exposure so that the subject is captured as natural and accurate as possible with little or no modification. I usually use full manual mode because this allows me total control of depth of field and shutter speed, and use an 18% grey card to figure exposure and calibrate the white balance.
  9. I usually prefer natural sunlight for photography mostly because of the high light level. I usually use artificial light for small subjects when I don't have much choice, or I want to control the direction that the light is coming from. That goes to show artificial light does have it's advantages, you can use it any time of the day and you also have more control over it. Both natural and artificial light usually work better if the light is soft. That is one of the reasons that many photographers like to shoot outdoors at sunrise and sun set, when the sunlight is soft. Cloudy days also work
  10. I would suggest investigating your camera first, assuming that you haven't already, before looking for a replacement. What model is your Sony camera? It appears that your camera chose different white balance settings even though you used the same light. I may be able to look up the user manual and help you with the settings if I know the model. One thing that I have noticed with point and shoot digital cameras that I've used. If the light source is good and bright I usually get consistent settings when using automatic modes. I don't know if it will make much difference with your c
  11. First of all, I want to say that I'm not trying to criticize anyone. My intention is to help point out ways to improve coin photography. I'm going a little off topic with this thread (the subject of my post is white balance) because I think it will help some of us to better understand one important aspect of digital photography. I also want to say that I wish I had a coin like this one! Very nice! One aspect of digital photography that requires careful attention is white balance. If the white balance is off, the colors will appear off. I notice digital photographs quite often
  12. I found another coin with striations, although not a penny.
  13. Today it was completely overcast: So, I decided to try some photographs with the ultimate light box, the entire cloud covered sky: The result wasn't too bad. These two photographs of a silver eagle were taken from a window sill with unobstructed light from outside, full overcast sky.
  14. Here are some photos of Silver Eagles in different lighting. Defused light: (Note: I'm not sure why the obverse view looks almost milky.) Defused light with some reflected from about 45° up and to the left: Defused light with some reflected from the top of the coin about 70° from horizontal: From what I can tell, the best lighting really depends upon the coin. This silver eagle has an almost frosted look to the surface. Not too shiny, so it tends to look better with softer light.
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