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Welcome to CoinPeople! The best place would be to find a dealer in coins and see if they are able to authenticate it for you. The 1933 British penny is a rare coin with only 7 known specimens. Another alternative would be to pay PCGS Europe to authenticate the coin. They are a third party professional coin grader and authenticator. Their website is at www.pcgseurope.com. I would very much like to see a photo of the coin if you can post it here. Good luck!

Apparently we had some updates? Well, I'm seeing the top menu now as: Forums Members Members Forums Gallery More...

I just wanted to remind everybody of one of the basic addages of the hobby: "Buy the Book Before the Coin" Simply put, educate yourself about what it is you are going to be making purchases on. It really alleviates a lot of the heartache and headache involved in coin purchases. I have been spending the past several weeks cataloging and listing our personal numismatic library for insurance purposes. I have only recently obtained quite a few of the books/issues and have not read a lot of them, but they are in our library and available to us when we need to research information. Many of these books/issues are good for relaxing and enjoying a (sometimes) quiet afternoon of reading. There is so much information out there from the centuries our hobby has been in existence. None of us can be experts on many subjects related to numismatics, and we are always in a state of learning. Numismatic resources are a must for anybody truly serious in the hobby. I have found that our library value far exceeds that of our personal coin collection, and that's really not such a bad thing. Numismatics is not only about buying coins, it's about learning, discovery, and contentment with the (usually) shiny round things. I also encourage everyone to consider adding your numismatic library to your insurance policy in case of fire, smoke, or water damage. Even if your library only contains a bunch of price books and magazines, the value could add up quickly. In our case, the library is valued at over $15k. And, some things are simply irreplaceable like a 3rd Edition signed copy of Overton's Early Half Dollar Die Varieties. Our coin collection is pathetically small in comparison. Anyway, I just wanted to jab the jaw a bit after finally finishing this tedious project.

Thanks, CCG! I was trying to read it Top Bottom Right Left. It didn't occur to me to read clockwise around.

On the top one the string is covering part of the inscription. But it appears to be inscribed as Zheng He Tong Bao (read it as: Top Bottom Right Left). This would place it between 1111-1118, of Chinese origin. If you can show the Top character better, it will verify. They can can be bought wholesale for about $3 each. Not sure about the second one yet, but I'll update later. edit: should say I am referring to the first of the "unidentified" coins

I have five new 2014 Red Books (hard bound) on eBid with BuyNow until Sunday evenning! PayPal accepted but not required! The listing may be found here. EDIT: The price is now at 15% off the cover price with free shipping!

I am re-openning my eBid store fronts! Visit CoinCellar.com for some numismatic related materials and supplies! I am (slowly) adding things in over the next several weeks. These are all non-coin items such as books, coin folders, coin slab holders, etc. I am currently posting some CDNs and Numismatist magazines. There are five hard bound 2014 Red Books available! I have these currently marked down by 20% of the list price with free shipping (lowest I have found on the internet so far). The Red Books this year come with a complimentary two free months subscription of Red Book Online! PM me if you are interested in an item, but do not want to create an eBid account. I would suggest just creating an eBid account anyway. In my personal opinion, it is better than eBay, regardless of the difference in "exposure".

I use an AmScope dual-light 10x-60x stereo (steps by 10x) with an Amscope MD35 0.3 Mega Pixel (640x480) Live Video Microscope Digital Camera. I've been seeing some posts elsewhere about some Lighthouse USB, but haven't paid too much attention since I'm not in the market.

Be glad you even have a dealer within 100 miles of you.

Interesting work. I assume that you are compiling this on your own? It looks like you have put a good deal of time into it. Thank you. I am curious. Are the samples you are using from your personal collection?

Welcome to the forum! I have no experience with any of those software packages. The only things I have looked at software-wise for numismatics have been a few android apps for my tablet "just to see". I use hard printed books for my grading and identifying, for the most part. Sorry I could be of no real help.

1. 1976 20 Drachmai Greece 2.SH1376 (1997) 100 rials Iran 3. 2004 50 yuan Republic of China (Taiwan) 4. 1984 500 Won Korea-South 5. SH1375 (1996) 250 rials Iran

Welcome! I'm sure you'll learn a lot from the community here.

pm sent

Better idea would be to simply ask him if he can do you up with a deluxe lot with plenty to go through. I haven't bought anything from him for years, but the few times I did buy from him, I was very happy with what I received.

Our economy runs on a fiat monetary system. Therefore, inflation rises artificially based on the creation of money. With the elimination of the Canadian cent, inflation is certain to happen. That inflation is dependent upon how many more larger denominated coins are made to meet the new economic demands. The more coins that are minted, the more the fiat money becomes devalued, and thus the inflation. Although it may not be noticeable in the short-term, continued devaluation of the Candian currency will have definite long-term inflationary effects.

The fact that the coin in the holder does not appear to be mint state should automatically make bells and whistles go off. On a well worn coin, the raised B (and marker below the bust) would not be detectable. The incused mintmark would be evident, however, even with the amount of wear apparent on the coin you have shown. I question the authenticity of the NGC slab itself. Seeing the serial numbers would be a big help. The two points on the slab itself that raise questions are the font (specifically the numerals) and the edge weld. I would assume you probably "got a deal" on this one for just under $1,000US. At that price, I would consider sending it in to NGC to validate the holder's authenticity. Other things make me think that the coin itself may not be genuine. Photos can be decieving, but those dentacles are glaringly troublesome.

USPatterns.com has information on the plastic patterns that were considered. Of course, a Judd or Pollock reference book would be helpful in cross-referencing. In my Scott's Encyclopedia, he mentions in 1942 (S-499): So, at least the one cent was a consideration for plastic. Now with regards to a proposed 1/2 cent piece, I don't have any knowledge or information off-hand. But a search of legislation or mint reports for that era may produce some further information.

A photo would help. This is the community forum, however, so not many will see this yet. Maybe someone can get this moved to a proper coin forum for you. And welcome to Coin People!

Congratulations! I bet it will be quite some time before you actually complete it with the 1958 seeing as it runs over 1,000USD in Fine. Nevertheless, quite the acomplishment

Yes, from right to left reads 1 mace (1 ch'ien). From top to bottom you have Kuang-hsu Yin-yuan. Y#B16. I have no idea what the Uyghur script says.

I have been trying to find any information on your coin for the past several days to no avail. The obverse identifies it as a Republic of China coin. The denomination is 10 wen (cash). There not many cash coins from that era that I am familiar with as having a chrysanthemum on the reverse. The chrysanthemum is mostly predominant in Japanese coins. The Gansu province utilized four pointed rosettes. There was a 10 cash copper pattern minted from that mint around 1928, but I have no details on exactly what the design would have been. However, this province utilized the crossed flags on its reverse. Yet, that province did utilize the chrysanthemum with a dot in the middle. And guess what...... I decided to just do a final web search and I found the coin graded NGC...Gansu pattern 1924 10 cash here.

<P>The only difference between "cleaning" and "conservation" is intent, although certain powers that be have propagated otherwise these past years. "Conservation" has little to nothing to do with being a "professional". "Conservation" and "cleaning" are essentially the same mechanism.<BR> <BR> <P>That said, not all attempts to conserve succeed. Take a look at <A href="http://kth.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:455772/FULLTEXT01">this dissertation</A> (doctoral thesis). Read the subsection entitled "2.1 Atmospheric corrosion of copper" as it explains the process of the patina. Remember, the patina protects the surface.<BR> <BR> <P>If you have time, give the entirety of the thesis a good read.<BR> <BR> <P>There are a number of factors that could determine your conservation results. Chemical reactions vary in time and intensity based on a number of factors including such things as the level of acetic acid in the olive oil you used (which itself has many factors including crop production and manufacturing methods). Regardless of the frequency in which you changed the oil, other conditions (including humidity) could also affect the way the copper oxidizes in the olive oil.<BR> <BR> <P>"Conservation" is a gamble (even for the "professionals").

I am about half way done with them (29 rolls left). I decided to start searching to see if there may be any speared Bison in the bunch. Nothing so far.

Last box of nickels I got from my bank was last week. $100 in shiny, new 2005-D Bisons.