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GDJMSP

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Posts posted by GDJMSP

  1. Would lining it with felt protect the coin from the wood?

     

     

    No, it doesn't protect them at all. It is the gasses that the wood puts off that harms the coins and the gasses go right through the felt. Also, you then have the issue of the felt itself - the felt harms coins as well. Think of an unc coin sitting in a coin cabinet on that felt - what do suppose that felt does to the surface of a coin ? What is the first thing you learn about handling coins - never touch the surface, only the edges. This is precisely where the term "cabinet friction" comes from. All old coin cabinets were covered with felt and sometimes velvet. As the coins moved ever so slightly every time the cabinet was opened the surface of the was slightly scratched by the felt or velvet. And of course then you also have the issue of the glue or adhesive that is used to attach the flet to the wood. This puts off harmful gasses as well.

     

    No, I'm afraid that every possible variation there is for using wood as a storage medium for coins has been tried many, many years before any of us were born. And they were found to be lacking. The reason we have modern acrylic & plastic coin holders today is because they are the best things there is to use for coin storage.

  2. I don't think a bit of cabinet toning would be all bad for certain coins. Plus, coins with nice patinas wouldn't be that impacted. isn't there some coating these days that would virtually make the wood imert?

     

    The wood could never be made inert, but I suppose it is possible to completely encase the wood so that the gases & chemicals it contains could not reach the coins. But if you were to do this, wouldn't it defeat the purpose of using wood to begin with ? I mean, why use wood if you are going to completely encase it so it cannot be seen ? Why not just use an inert material to begin with to make the cabinet out of ?

  3. The first Proof coin was produced in the UK by the Royal Mint in 1652. The first US Proofs were produced in 1834. The first US Proofs produced for public sale was in 1858, they were produced continuously through 1915. They started making US Proofs again in 1936, stopped in 1942 and began again in 1950. They continue today.

  4. Forstner bits don't have the long starter point so that they leave a flat bottomed hole. They are for NOT drilling all the way thru the wood.

     

    I recently bought a set (not the coin sized ones) for a project and love them.

     

    Also, I imagine if you can find metric bits, you could get the right sizes cheaper than those. Maybe.

     

    Fatcat

     

     

    Really ? What do suppose these are then ? Forstner bits

     

    I've been in the construction business for almost 40 years, I know rather well what they are and what they are used for.

  5. GDJMSP - this tool doesn't mean that it has to be used for wood, does it. It can be used on wood, plastic, cardboard etc like Dansco and other major companies.

     

    I actually would like such custom made sets though - would look great on other foreign sets that I am working on :ninja:

     

    A forstner bit used on the cardboard of a coin album would likely shred the album. With plastic, it would get very dull very fast. These bits are made to be used on thick wood and generally when you are planning on drill all the way thru to the other side. They have a starter point on them that can be 1/4 to 1/2 long - wouldn't work on an album at all.

     

    What you need to drill out albums are hole saw bits, but getting them in the sizes you want would be tough. You'd have to have them custom made.

  6. There are some listed in Krause, and I have several catalogs with examples. Would take a while to sort thru them and find them though. Your best bet may be to use Numismaster and use their search function. That should turn some up for ya.

     

    I seem to recall reading about some German city state and Austrian issues as well. The counterfeiters were definitely not limited to France, Spain and the UK. Just about everybody used the same scheme.

  7. Teflon is inert so I doubt it would have any effect. I also doubt it would any good, since unless you cover the entire piece of wood with the teflon, the wood is still going to affect the coins.

     

    Coin cabinet makers discovered this centuries ago. That's why all good quality coin cabinets are only made of one wood - mahogany. It has the least effect of all woods on coins, but even it still has an effect.

  8. I bought this coin from CGB(a french famous company),But it looks like polisshed?Am i right?

     

    Possibly, hard to tell based on the pics. But knowing CGB, unless they described it as being polished or cleaned I would rather doubt it. CGB is very highly repsected and you can trust their descriptions. Can you list their description for this coin or provide a link ?

  9. In a recent Wood magazine they had an article about a set of Fostner bits (designed to drill nice flat holes in wood) that have been designed specifically to match the diameters of US coins. It seems that the standard sizes while accomodating many of the € coins quite well are a bit too large for US coins. These allow you to make plaques and displays that hold the coins without glue. I think it's Rockler that has them.

     

    Ah, here they are.

     

    US Coin Sized Fostner bits

     

     

    It would be a mistake to place coins in wood. Almost all woods contain large amounts of tanic acid and it is quite harmful to coins. At the very least it causes unsightly and ugly toning. Don't place coins in, on or anywhere around wood.

  10. So... buy in the Capital Holders to begin with?

     

     

    Usually you are better off to collect Proof sets in original packaging. When selling the sets, most dealers ask about the same price for orignal sets as they do those sets in the holders. But when buying them, most dealers will offer about half what they will for original sets. Doesn't seem right I know, but that is how it is.

     

    So if you are going to buy them you may as well buy original sets.

  11. I apologize for not being more specific: you're saying that these 52ab_1.jpg are better than these b37c_1.jpg

     

    Right? If so, that's what I needed to know! Thanks!

     

     

    Well there is something else that you should consider here. If you ever think of selling your Proof sets, I absolutely guarantee that they will bring higher prices in the original packaging than they will if they are in Captial holders. So by placing them in the Capital holders you could lose a significant percentage of value.

  12. Howdy numismatic nut - Welcome to the Forum !!

     

    First of all let me make a suggestion for you - do not buy coins from Littleton, you can get them much cheaper elsewhere. I wouldn't buy supplies or anything else from them for that matter.

     

    Now as to your problem, let me ask you this - did you order these coin holders from Littleton or did they just send them to you ? If you ordered them, then yes by all means pay for them - a Money Order would be just fine.

     

    But I asked if you did order them because Littleton is famous for sending coins and other stuff to collectors that they did not order or ask for them to sent in the first place. And if people go ahead and pay for these unrequested coins or supplies then Littleton will continue to send you unsolicted items for years - always expecting you to just pay for them. DO NOT just pay for them. You are not required to pay for stuff that people just send you. You have 2 options - you can return the coins at your expense - meaning you pay for the postage etc. Or you can just keep them and ignore the bill - never paying for them. If you do just keep them and not pay for them, then Littleton will stop sending you stuff that you didn't ask for.

  13. Ahhhhh what a difference - lions, horses - they're almost the same thing :ninja:

     

    Knowing you I figured it had to do with you trying to see an over-strike. But Boy Howdy ! - trying to figure that one out is gonna be tough. But of anybody can do it, it'll probably be you ;)

  14. Well after looking at that I assume that what you after is a computer program that can take poor images and enhance them into recognizable objects - kind of like the computers in the movies where they say - "now enhance that". If so, sorry pal - can;t help ya with that.

     

    However, after looking at your image, if I had to guess I'd have to guess that it was a counterfeit lion dollar.

  15. To Dansco or not to Dansco? I have a UNC SAE collection - one for each year to date. I'm beginning to notice on some of the coins that toning is beginning to develop. Its hard to tell if this will be desirable toning or not. All my other stuff is in Dansco albums so I'd like to keep them there.

     

    Any advice? What would you do? :ninja:

     

     

    OK, they are in Dansco albums. But there is a lot more to storage than that. Please describe the exact conditions of how you are storing the coins and then we may be able to offer some helpful suggestions. By exact conditons I mean first of all where you live - city and state. Then in what room of the house do you store them, are they stored in the open or in a closed container of some sort ? Do you use silica gel packs ? What kind of heat and cooling system do you have ? At what temperature do you normally keep the house and does it fluctuate - if so how much ? Do you or anyone else in the house smoke ? How old is the album ? Do you cook fried foods a lot or rarely ? Are there any large industrial plants in your town or close by ?

     

    You see, there are literally a thousand things that can and will affect coin toning. So without actually knowing the conditions, it's rather hard to make helpful suggestions.

  16. Anyone knows this?

    I´m not shore if it´s a ECU Philippe II of Spain cause of the weight info I got this should be about 28-29 gram but I´w found a very similar coin ECU coin @ http://cgb.fr/monnaies/vso/v09/gb/monnaiesgb3d12.html weight is Actual weight : 3,07 g.

    Legal weight : 3,42 g. for it.

     

    If you know more I´m happy for any info!

     

     

     

    If you can tell me the weight of the actual coin I can tell you the denomination. It is either a 1/4, 1/2 or ecu de Bourgogne, also known as a Burgundian rijksdaalder. This one was struck at the Utrecht mint in what appears to be 1568.

     

    It does have certain characteristics that make it appear that it might be a cast counterfeit as noted by gx.

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