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Everything posted by GDJMSP

  1. 29 cents - that is as cheap as you will find them
  2. Minor correction - ".... on the neck of an ass" is the correct quote. Quite a nice example though, I think it might even be worth a bit more than YeOldeCollector suggested. I'd get that one slabbed. Quite uncommon to find the counterstamp itself that nice.
  3. In the modern age, they make what they think they can sell. Sadly, it's that simple. In days gone by, they devised designs to honor people, places, things and events. Those days are no longer with us.
  4. As long as the argon was inside a modern and hermetically sealed coin holder - you would have the ultimate coin holder.
  5. No, it doesn't protect them at all. It is the gasses that the wood puts off that harms the coins and the gasses go right through the felt. Also, you then have the issue of the felt itself - the felt harms coins as well. Think of an unc coin sitting in a coin cabinet on that felt - what do suppose that felt does to the surface of a coin ? What is the first thing you learn about handling coins - never touch the surface, only the edges. This is precisely where the term "cabinet friction" comes from. All old coin cabinets were covered with felt and sometimes velvet. As the coins moved ever so slig
  6. The wood could never be made inert, but I suppose it is possible to completely encase the wood so that the gases & chemicals it contains could not reach the coins. But if you were to do this, wouldn't it defeat the purpose of using wood to begin with ? I mean, why use wood if you are going to completely encase it so it cannot be seen ? Why not just use an inert material to begin with to make the cabinet out of ?
  7. It has nothing to do with production methods - all coins tone starting the instant they are made.
  8. The first Proof coin was produced in the UK by the Royal Mint in 1652. The first US Proofs were produced in 1834. The first US Proofs produced for public sale was in 1858, they were produced continuously through 1915. They started making US Proofs again in 1936, stopped in 1942 and began again in 1950. They continue today.
  9. Asking which series has the nicest toning is like asking what's the best flavor of ice cream ? Every answer will vary with individual taste. My answer would be this one -
  10. Really ? What do suppose these are then ? Forstner bits I've been in the construction business for almost 40 years, I know rather well what they are and what they are used for.
  11. A forstner bit used on the cardboard of a coin album would likely shred the album. With plastic, it would get very dull very fast. These bits are made to be used on thick wood and generally when you are planning on drill all the way thru to the other side. They have a starter point on them that can be 1/4 to 1/2 long - wouldn't work on an album at all. What you need to drill out albums are hole saw bits, but getting them in the sizes you want would be tough. You'd have to have them custom made.
  12. There are some listed in Krause, and I have several catalogs with examples. Would take a while to sort thru them and find them though. Your best bet may be to use Numismaster and use their search function. That should turn some up for ya. I seem to recall reading about some German city state and Austrian issues as well. The counterfeiters were definitely not limited to France, Spain and the UK. Just about everybody used the same scheme.
  13. Back then platinum was cheaper than gold, that's why they made counterfeits out of platinum and then plated them with gold. It allowed them to approximate the weight and size very closely of genuine coins.
  14. Teflon is inert so I doubt it would have any effect. I also doubt it would any good, since unless you cover the entire piece of wood with the teflon, the wood is still going to affect the coins. Coin cabinet makers discovered this centuries ago. That's why all good quality coin cabinets are only made of one wood - mahogany. It has the least effect of all woods on coins, but even it still has an effect.
  15. Possibly, hard to tell based on the pics. But knowing CGB, unless they described it as being polished or cleaned I would rather doubt it. CGB is very highly repsected and you can trust their descriptions. Can you list their description for this coin or provide a link ?
  16. It would be a mistake to place coins in wood. Almost all woods contain large amounts of tanic acid and it is quite harmful to coins. At the very least it causes unsightly and ugly toning. Don't place coins in, on or anywhere around wood.
  17. Usually you are better off to collect Proof sets in original packaging. When selling the sets, most dealers ask about the same price for orignal sets as they do those sets in the holders. But when buying them, most dealers will offer about half what they will for original sets. Doesn't seem right I know, but that is how it is. So if you are going to buy them you may as well buy original sets.
  18. Well there is something else that you should consider here. If you ever think of selling your Proof sets, I absolutely guarantee that they will bring higher prices in the original packaging than they will if they are in Captial holders. So by placing them in the Capital holders you could lose a significant percentage of value.
  19. Howdy numismatic nut - Welcome to the Forum !! First of all let me make a suggestion for you - do not buy coins from Littleton, you can get them much cheaper elsewhere. I wouldn't buy supplies or anything else from them for that matter. Now as to your problem, let me ask you this - did you order these coin holders from Littleton or did they just send them to you ? If you ordered them, then yes by all means pay for them - a Money Order would be just fine. But I asked if you did order them because Littleton is famous for sending coins and other stuff to collectors that they did not
  20. Ahhhhh what a difference - lions, horses - they're almost the same thing Knowing you I figured it had to do with you trying to see an over-strike. But Boy Howdy ! - trying to figure that one out is gonna be tough. But of anybody can do it, it'll probably be you
  21. Well after looking at that I assume that what you after is a computer program that can take poor images and enhance them into recognizable objects - kind of like the computers in the movies where they say - "now enhance that". If so, sorry pal - can;t help ya with that. However, after looking at your image, if I had to guess I'd have to guess that it was a counterfeit lion dollar.
  22. OK, they are in Dansco albums. But there is a lot more to storage than that. Please describe the exact conditions of how you are storing the coins and then we may be able to offer some helpful suggestions. By exact conditons I mean first of all where you live - city and state. Then in what room of the house do you store them, are they stored in the open or in a closed container of some sort ? Do you use silica gel packs ? What kind of heat and cooling system do you have ? At what temperature do you normally keep the house and does it fluctuate - if so how much ? Do you or anyone else in the ho
  23. First of all, what did you use to take the pics and at what resolution ? Secondly, what exactly are you hoping to see in the pics - more detail, color, luster - what ?
  24. If you can tell me the weight of the actual coin I can tell you the denomination. It is either a 1/4, 1/2 or ecu de Bourgogne, also known as a Burgundian rijksdaalder. This one was struck at the Utrecht mint in what appears to be 1568. It does have certain characteristics that make it appear that it might be a cast counterfeit as noted by gx.
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