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LostDutchman

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  1. Misaligned Die Strikes – If the dies are not perfectly centered, one above the other, the struck coin will have incorrectly positioned images. Usually the obverse is offset and will look link an off center coin but the reverse will appear normal. These coins do not really command a premium being common from 1%-4% offset. A premium is usually paid for coins more then 5% as this is extreme misalignment. Misaligned dies are common in early 70’s Kennedy half dollars and late 70’s to early 80’s Lincoln cents. With a little luck one can pull these coins out of circulation on a regular basis but finding one that is more then 5% offset is a challenge.
  2. Partial Collar Broadstrikes- A partial collar broadstrike occurs when a coin does not fall into the collar properly. It could fall partially in or could sit at an angle.
  3. Out Of Collar Broadstrikes – A broadstruck error occurs when a coin is struck without the collar to form the rim and edge that is part of the shape of the coin. Coins can be broadstruck on either Type One or Type Two planchets. A Type I planchet is a planchet that was not rolled to create the raised edge. These appear larger. A Type II planchet is the normal rolled edge planchet. When a coin is broadstruck the blank being fed into the collar will spread and distort outward as it is being struck because the collar isn't in the correct position to stop it from spreading.
  4. Die Struck (Obverse and Reverse) - Both sides have come in contact with the dies and have design in varying degrees.
  5. Uniface – Refers to a strike where the coin only comes in contact with 1 die. This can be caused by another coin, struck or not, blocking the die.
  6. Be careful with these errors. Look for tool marks around the edge as this is a sign that the coin was "helped" to split
  7. Split Planchets – This error type involves a defective planchet. During or after striking, half of the coin falls away, leaving 2 thinner half planchets that have only 1 side with design. This is similar to a lamination but the entire struck surface of the coin laminates.
  8. Improper Weight – A coin that is struck on a planchet that is not the proper weight. Sometimes this happens when the metal the planchets were punched from is too thin .Only a scale that measures grams or grains can determine this error.
  9. Missing Clad -A clad coin which is struck while one of the clad layers is either missing before the strike or falls away after the strike is known as missing clad layer.
  10. Copper Wash/Sintered Planchet – Sintered or copper washed planchets are coin blanks left in the annealing furnace for an extended period of time, causing dust from previous coins to embed in the blank planchet making it darker then usual
  11. Clipped Planchet – Coins struck on incomplete planchets. Clips are caused when the strip of metal being fed into the blanking press is for some reason sent back over the already punched area. This leaves an incomplete planchet with a crescent shaped area missing. If a planchet is stamped from the beginning or end of the strip they can also hit the end and have a strait or end clip.
  12. Wrong Planchet – Coins struck on planchets which were not intended for that denomination and are small enough to fit into the striking chamber for a larger coin. The planchets get left in the hopper when the machines dies are switched for another coin. Examples include a cent on dime planchet, quarter on nickel or dime, half dollar on cent or quarter.
  13. Wrong Plating - Certain types of U.S. coinage is plated. The Lincoln cent for instance is a zinc based coin that is plated with copper. Cents have been found plated with brass.
  14. Improper Alloy Mix – Coins are minted from metals that are mixed to form an alloy. Sometimes that alloy is improperly mixed, causing discoloration or streaking.
  15. Laminations – If the alloy for the planchet was incorrectly mixed causing gas or other imperfections too be trapped in the coin the result of these imperfections escaping would be a flaked or peeled planchet.
  16. Wrong Stock – Refers to a coin struck on the wrong thickness but right size of blank metal. Example would be a quarter struck on metal stock meant for dimes. This happens when a roll of a certain stock is run through a planchet punch machine that is set for a different coin.
  17. Online Error Coin Reference Welcome to the world of U.S. Mint error coin collecting. As a hobby, error coin collecting has been steadily increasing in popularity for many years. Even though the U.S. Mint has put in place new procedures that have greatly reduced the production of errors, the hobby is still attracting new collectors. To start off lets look at what exactly an error coin is. In the simplest terms, an error coin is a mistake made during the minting process. These mistakes come in many forms, from off center strikes to unstruck blanks. Because of the many processes used to mint coins, error coins have been produced in a wide variety.Each thread deals with a different type of error. Besides many high quality photographs, every thread will have detailed descriptions of the error and a simplified rarity scale. One thing that is most often asked is “Where do I find error coins?”. To which there is no one answer, as many options are open to collectors. First is the bank. Many collectors simply buy coins by the roll from their local bank branch and search them, returning anything they don’t want to buy more coins. Then, of course, there is your local coin dealer. Many coin dealers deal in errors and standard coins and can be very helpful in picking out the right coin. Coin shows are also popular. There is never any shortage of dealers in error coins at most coin shows. The possibility even exists to find an error that was overlooked by the dealer. If you do not see and errors in the dealers cases don’t be afraid to ask. Dealers will often have many more coins not displayed for sale with them. The worst thing that can happen is they will say no and you move on to the next dealer. Sometimes they will pull a whole box of errors out from under the table or out of a bag. Internet auctions and web sites also offer a full selection of error coins in almost every price range. Be careful here. A coin is only as good as its description. A description is only as good as the person who is selling it. Look closely at the pictures and if there is a poor picture with an error do not buy that coin. Pocket change and jars of coins also make great places to find an error coin, as many people do not bother to look at their change before spending it or tossing it into a jar or coffee can. Located in the back of this book, you will find a section dedicated to spotting intentionally altered or fake coins. Because some error coins can carry extreme value, there are individuals who seek to make a profit from uninformed collectors by offering them “rare” errors at bargain prices. If someone offers to sell you a coin that you know is very rare and valuable for a price well below fair market value you should use extreme caution. Not only will you likely lose money on a worthless coin, you could inadvertently become subject to a criminal investigation. Counterfeit coinage is illegal to possess, sell, or buy. Protect yourself by being properly informed.
  18. How coins are made at the U.S. Mint Step #1 Blanking The U.S. Mint uses strips of metal 13 inches wide and 1,500 feet long to produce nickels, dimes, quarters, half-dollars, and dollars. This strip is run through a punching press to create the blanks which is the round piece of metal that the coin is eventually struck on. The Mint buys ready made zinc coated copper blanks from private contractors. (Errors in this process: Clips) Step #2 Annealing, Washing and Drying The blanks are then taken to a large furnace and heated to make them softer for striking. They then are thrown in a big vat to be chemically washed and then dried. (Errors in this process: Improper Annealing) Step #3 Upsetting The blanks are then sent through an upsetting mill which adds the rims to the coin. Step #4 Striking The blanks are then fed into the press. This is the point that the blanks are made into coins. Three dies are involved in the printing of coins the hammer, the anvil, and the collar. The anvil die is the die used to make the reverse of the coin and does not move. The hammer die is a moving die that has the obverse of the coin on it. This die moves towards the blank and the anvil die much like a blacksmiths hammer and anvil. The collar is the die that holds the blank in place and also adds either the smooth edge or the reeding along the edge. (Errors in this process: Off Centers, Broadstrikes, Multi Strikes, Strike Throughs, Die Caps, Fold Over Strikes, Die Cracks and Gouges, Double Dies, Repunched Mint Marks) Step #5 Inspecting The coins are then ran over a riddler which bounces the coins over a series of holes on a slope to take all the misshapen coins out. The remaining coins that have passed through the riddler are then inspected by mint employees. It is impossible to inspect every coin that is produced so some errors slip by. Step #6 Counting, Bagging, and Shipping The coins are then counted and placed into large ballistic bags which hold thousands and thousands of coins. These are then shipped to the various federal reserve banks and from there on to your local banks. © 2005 Matt Dinger
  19. United States Coin Specifications Indian Head Cent 19mm CU/NI 4.67 Gr. (1859-1864) Indian Head Cent 19mm CU/ZC 3.11 Gr. (1864-1909) Lincoln Cent 19mm CU/TN/ZC 3.11 Gr. (1909-1942) Lincoln Cent 19mm ZC/STEEL 2.70 Gr. (1943) Lincoln Cent 19mm CU/ZC 3.11 Gr. (1944-1946) Lincoln Cent 19mm CU/TN/ZC 3.11 Gr. (1947-1962) Lincoln Cent 19mm CU/ZC 3.11 Gr. (1962-1982) Lincoln Cent 19mm CU/ZC 2.50 Gr. (1982-Date) V Nickel 21.2mm CU/NI 5 Gr. (1883-1913) Buffalo Nickel 21.2mm 5 Gr. CU/NI (1913-1938) Jefferson Nickel 21.2mm 5 Gr. CU/NI (1938-1942) Jefferson Nickel 21.2mm 5 Gr. SI/CU/MAG (1942-1945) Jefferson Nickel 21.2mm 5 Gr. CU/NI (1946-Date) Barber Dime 17.9mm 2.50 Gr. SI/CU (1892-1916) Mercury Dime 17.9mm 2.50 Gr. SI/CU (1916-1945) Roosevelt Dime 17.9mm 2.50 Gr. SI/CU (1946-1964) Roosevelt Dime 17.9mm 2.27 Gr. CU/NI (1964-Date) Barber Quarter 24.3mm 6.25 Gr. SI/CU (1892-1916) Standing Lib. Quarter 24.3mm 6.25 Gr. SI/CU (1916-1930) Washington Quarter 24.3mm 6.25 Gr. SI/CU (1932-1964) Washington Quarter 24.3mm 5.67 Gr. CU/NI (1965-1999) State Quarter 24.3mm 5.67 Gr. CU/NI (1999-Date) Barber Half 30.6mm 12.50 Gr. SI/CU (1892-1915) Walking Lib. Half 30.6mm 12.50 Gr. SI/CU (1916-1947) Franklin Half 30.6mm 12.50 Gr. SI/CU (1948-1963) Kennedy Half 30.6mm 12.50 Gr. SI/CU (1964) Kennedy Half 30.6mm 11.34 Gr. CU/NI (1965-Date) Morgan Dollar 38.1mm 26.73 Gr. SI/CU (1878-1904,1921) Peace Dollar 38.1mm 26.73 Gr. SI/CU (1921-1935) Eisenhower Dollar 38.1mm 22.68 Gr. CU/NI (1971-1978) SBA Dollar 26.50mm 8.1 Gr. CU/NI (1979-1981,1999) Sacagewa Dollar 26.50mm 8.1 Gr. MAG/BRASS (2000-Date) KEY – CU(copper), NI(nickel), SI(silver), MAG(magnesium), ZC(zinc), TN(tin).
  20. I know the equipment is very expensive.....a lot of pressure is required to make a coin and unless you are going to use a very very soft metal I don't think you would be able to get anough pressure with anything opperated by hand....dies would have to be engraved and would have to be made of a hard metal such as steel...
  21. the scratches on the second dime come from being stuck in a counting machine..... and it looks like a filled or weak die the first one looks like strike doubling damage...or machine doubling
  22. This is going to be the beginning of a beautiful relationship! Thanks Bill!
  23. are my 30 days up yet?? I can fill most of those slots....lol
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