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Everything posted by marv

  1. marv

    What happened to all those nice coins you used to display in your header (most of whose pictures I supplied)?


    1. akdrv


      There was a forum software update that included a new theme. I will look into getting the header back.

  2. Guess the story and picture (and plastic) worked. Someone paid over $80,000 for the coin including commission. But they got an incomparable coin and a story with which to understand the rarity of its existence. Seems like small change compared to art auctions. A week ago a Picasso sold for $179,000,000.
  3. FYI - the MS67 1826 rouble in the Coin People header graphic seems to be on the block at the St. James' sale on May 20th. See back cover of World Coin News April edition.
  4. Just curious: here we are in March, 2015, seven months after IMIS made his prediction. Have many of the Sincona 19 lots appeared for sale at discounted prices?
  5. This is a very nice coin, and an example of what you can get for not a great deal of money. Don't buy retail (from a dealer) if possible. Become familiar with the prices for various qualities of coins in this series (if in a slab, the grade on the slab is just a starter - once you look at enough coins at auction, you will develop a sense of what is nice and what is not). Don't buy the first thing you see. Then, when you have this experience, you can begin to get serious at auctions and have an idea of about how much to bid if the coin is really nice for the grade. It's important to look at man
  6. What is "overpriced?" There are no bargains in coins. You will never (or almost never) get "lucky" and find a coin for $25 for which someone else will pay $1000. Unless you educate yourself, it's much more likely that you will pay $100 for a coin that no one else will pay more than $25 for. Search ha.com, ebay results, coinarchives.com, sixbid.com, acsearch.info, and other auction sites to see their historical prices for the 1818-1820 crown in various grades. Then you will have an idea what people are willing to pay for these coins. Only then will you be able to make a judgement as to whether
  7. Interesting. So as late as 1923, they still could not make accurate planchettes? During the late empire, wasn't the St. Petersburg mint supposed to be as modern and up to date as any world mint? The late gold imperial 5 and 10 roubles look pretty good. Did something happen to that technique when the Soviets took over?
  8. Perhaps you're referring to adjustment marks? This was common before about 1840 when planchette preparation was not as exacting as it became in more modern times. When coin planchettes were sufficiently over weight, the weight was "adjusted" by removing material from the planchette with a file before striking. In some instances, the marks left by the adjustment were not obliterated by the striking process showing up on the finished coin. Underweight planchettes were re-melted to start over. With experience, adjustment marks are relatively easy to distinguish. Here is a good article on adju
  9. Die lines on a coin are not hairlines. Because lines resulting from wiping a die are incuse, i.e., they cut into the die's surface, the resulting lines on the coin struck from a die that's been wiped are in relief, i.e., they stick out above the surface of the coin. True hairlines cut into the surface of the coin. So while die lines may at first look like hairlines, they are not and are easily distinguished from hairlines with a good glass. In general, the grading companies do not downgrade a coin due to die lines. I have seen proof coins from dies that have been lightly wiped, and there are f
  10. In my opinion, it's all a question of degree. I've followed Russian coins at auction for 10 years. It seems to me, anecdotally at least, that NGC is a bit "softer" on hairlines in the circulated grades and for 18th century and earlier coins. In reality, it's a miracle to find a 250-year-old coin that hasn't been wiped ("cleaned") at some point. If the lines are very evident, then the coin may come back in a "details" holder, but even then, perhaps not if the coin is an important one. If the TPG details-graded for even light hairlines for 200-300 year old circulated coins, perhaps collectors wo
  11. Well thanks for the compliment. I take my time and try to buy coins that I like and (hopefully) when the time comes, others will also like them. Since you're obviously interested in talers, you really should take a look at taleruniverse.com. He's got a very impressive number of just beautiful talers and 2 talers! If you would have tried for the coin at Stacks, you would have had to have deep pockets as I was told that the Austrian dealer was prepared to go to $10,000 for the coin. I'm with you on having some toning, but this is once that I had to make an exception. There have been oth
  12. OK, here is what I dug up (NPI): I can't find any history prior to March, 2014, but this coin (raw) was in a Kuenker auction, 246, lot 3397 where it sold for around 2400 Euro plus commission (15%?). In August, it appeared in the Stacks auction, in a slab. In the Kuenker sale, this coin had more of the black toning around the periphery and possibly some light toning in the fields. By the time it appeared in the Stacks sale, much of the black toning around the periphery was gone, and the coin was now a blast white. My theory is that the successful buyer at Kuenker recognized what an outstanding
  13. I recently purchased this coin of Ferdinand I, no date, struck sometime in Ferdinand's reign (1558-1564) as Holy Roman Emperor or posthumously by his son. The Stacks cataloger attributed it to Dav-8030, but I note there are several varieties of Dav-8030. This coin is struck from roller dies and has rosettes on both sides, has HIS. rather than HISP for Spain on the reverse. Since I don't have a copy of Davenport's "European Crowns 1486-1600" where this Davenport number is located, I don't know what the defining properties are for the various varieties. Perhaps someone who is knowledgeable about
  14. To me the coin looks like it has some wear but has been wiped or lightly cleaned to make it appear bright. Just for your information, a graded (NGC AU55) was sold this year by Heritage for around $500, so unless the coin really is uncirculated, it's worth far less than 1500 Euros. Here is the link to the auction: http://coins.ha.com/itm/russia/world-coins/russia-nicholas-ii-rouble-1915-bc-au55-ngc-/a/3035-34819.s (You have to create an account to see the sale price, but it was $499.) You might also want to search the Heritage site for all 1915 roubles that have been sold, look at t
  15. And the great thing about this crown is that even collectors of modest means can own a relatively nice example. At the GEF or AU levels, they're reasonable. Just make sure you find one that isn't cleaned (hairlines) and might have some attractive toning. You will then have a real piece of history in your hands. In the US, those grades would probably be MS63 OR MS64. I really like the 1818 LXIII Crown, one of the finest pieces ever struck. If you study the history of this coin's creation, you will lean about the competition between Benedetto Pistrucci and William Wyon, and how the master o
  16. My William III crown - 1696 third bust - finest and only one graded by PCGS MS64 with the diagnostic die lumps on the reverse which characterize this year/variety. The first bust of this year (curved chest plate) is much more common.
  17. Here, for those that appreciate great coin photography, are a couple of new pictures that I've had taken of some of my nicest British coins. Coin photography is tricky, so I had a pro do it. 1818 LXIII Crown - one of the finest preserved of the first steam-driven crown coinage of Great Britain. William Wellesly Pole, the master of the mint, took great care in the production and handling of these coins, and the average condition today is quite high. Of course, after two hundred years, a coin in this state of preservation is very scarce. Most have suffered from owners wanting to keep them "s
  18. Of course the 1818 crown was a history-making production. The master of the mint devoted a great deal of care to each strike, making sure that they were each wrapped in tissue paper. That's why, today, you'll find many nice examples. Supposedly there were proofs made, but the quality of the business strikes was so high that it's tough to really tell a supposed proof from a high quality proof-like strike. The coin I have is proof-like. 1818 was the first year of steam-driven crown production.
  19. Here, for those that appreciate great coin photography, are a couple of new pictures that I've had taken of coins of mine. Coin photography is tricky, so I had a pro do it. 1818 LXIII Crown - one of the finest! 1850 Victoria YH half crown - superlative example (proof?). The 1850 is one of those early half crowns that are so difficult to fine in mint state. It had a smaller mintage and is elusive in any condition. Just search Heritage for the 1850, and the best you'll most likely come across is an MS65 1850 that doesn't hold a candle to this coin. Still unslabbed but probably an
  20. Strike, luster, wear and surface quality (i.e. hairlines, scratches, etc.) are all used by the major TPG companies to arrive at a grade. In addition to hard factual issues such as detecting a bit of wear by the loss of luster at the high points of the design, there is, as as been commented upon, a great deal of subjectivity involved. In the end, it all goes back to eye appeal. That's why you might hear references to the "technical grade" as opposed to the "market grade." The technical grade corresponds to what the TPG publishes in terms of the degree of wear, number and position of marks, degr
  21. I agree that barring heavy deposits, it's better to leave the coin alone except in cases where the deposits are "active" and may causing increasing amounts of damage to the underlying surfaces of the coin. A case in point with many modern coins is PVC deposits which are acidic in nature and, if left on the coin, will irretrievably damage the surface of the coin. I'm not advocating that one who knows nothing about the subject take out the brillo pad and start scrubbing away. That's not common sense. It's also a function of the value of the coin, i.e., how much it's worth to someone else. Pa
  22. Rather than posing these questions on a forum, I would recommend that you do your own research. For example, visit www.ncscoin.com which is the home of numismatic conservation services to learn about the different types of "cleaning," what is harmful and what is not. It is not true that all types of "cleaning" detract from the value of a coin. It depends on how the coin's surfaces are affected. For example virtually every ancient coin has been cleaned. Most ancient coins were buried and, if not cleaned, would be most unattractive and covered with crud. The comment by the previous poster that "
  23. marv


    There are some series where you can obtain uncirculated coins for relatively low cost, and you should have no qualms about handling them. One is the winged liberty dime such as you show in your post. There are some very valuable dates, but there are lots of dates that are available in unc condition for low cost unless, of course, you want to play the slab game and insist on an MS68 where you will pay a large premium over an ungraded unc from a high mintage year. That's why I mentioned subscribing to a magazine like coin world where you can see price lists for common date coins available as unc
  24. marv


    My advice is to buy the book before the coin. Subscribe to one of the better coin publications such as Coin World. Learn about the different series or, if you're interested in world coins, subscribe to World Coin News. Find a series that you're interested in and spend some time learning about the history of the designs and engravers. Take the time to go to a good coin show where you will be exposed to coins of all types and qualities. For example, silver coins acquire the most beautiful ranges of toning so that even two coins of the same series and year may look completely different if the
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