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About JDen1952

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/24/1952

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Central New York
  • Interests
    Coin collecting (obviously), 1960s R'n'R music.
  1. It's a little late, but from my older library I provide: 1960 (12th ed.) - $ 2.25 Unc. 1962 (15th ed.) - $ 3.50 Unc. 1963 (16th ed.) - $ 4.00 Unc. 1967 (20th ed.) - $ 7.50 Unc. 1977 (30th ed.) - $30.00 Unc. 1981 (34th ed.) - $30.00 MS-60 1983 (36th ed.) - $32.00 MS-60 Hope it helps (you did say 1916 from Philadelphia?). Jerry
  2. JDen1952

    Dream Coin

    Gee. I disappear for a little while (8 MONTHS) and find out how much I've missed. Started a new job in May, computer crashed (seriously screwed up) about three months, got remarried (thank you, please hold your applause), and got the computer back up a few days ago. As for my Dream Coin, it's my avitar... an 1880 Flowing Hair Stella, NGC MS-66. If I hit the lottery, it's mine. Otherwise, it remains a dream (sigh). Jerry Nice to be back.
  3. It's a somewhat old thread, but I have to jump in here. IA-P (Iowa's from Phila) are the lowest SQs at 213 million. OH-Ps are second. NJ-D, which everyone thought would be the rarest/key to the series, is #45 out of 90 at this moment for which production figures are available. For the speculation question, uncirc TN-Ps are being hoarded for Elvis memorabilia. One of the TV coin shows made the claim that SC-Ps were the toughest (it's only tough to believe because SC-P is currently #89). Personally, I find MS-P to be the hardest to find in circulation. After that it's pretty much a was
  4. Sadly, my Statehood quarter (NY) draws considerable positive or negative air pressure, depending on which direction you're facing. Here's what I thought NY's quarter should have looked like: http://www.quarterdesigns.com/proposed/newyork/saratoga.jpg Jerry Lurking for months; popped back in for a visit.
  5. Occasionally, when a friend has a jug full of change and they want to know if there might be anything of value in it, this is the list I tell them to pull: WHEAT CENTS JEFFERSON NICKELS 1938 (all) 1939 (all) “War” Nickels, 1942-1945 1950-D ROOSEVELT DIMES 1964 and prior 1982 no mint mark 1996-W WASHINGTON QUARTERS 1964 and prior 1932 (all) KENNEDY HALF DOLLARS 1964 (all) 1970-D 1987 (all) EISENHOWER DOLLARS 1973 (all) ANYTHING ELSE THAT STRIKES YOUR FANCY. If it's a 5-gallon water jug, it'll obviously take a L-O-N-G time to check. Now if you're looki
  6. JDen1952

    Proof Sets

    Patty, as Dock said, your sets would be worth whatever someone is willing to pay for them. The Red Book values are pretty much out of date by the time of printing, so they should be used only as a guide and with a grain of salt. Some folks use the PCGS Price Guide. Keep in mind that these values are somewhat optimistic. Chances are the value of any particular set will be a little less than the value shown: http://pcgs.com/prices/frame.chtml?type=da...name=proof_sets A more accurate but time consuming method would be to do a completed auctions search on the online auction sites (
  7. If you prefer the short version: Ick. If you prefer a longer version: Even though I like the reissued Indian/Buffalo nickel design of the Bison Dollar (2001) and Double Bison (2006), that's one exception. A design from the first-issue silver coin from San Francisco (the Seated Liberty) would be a better choice, rather than a "new" Morgan, but not what I'd suggest. If they must reissue a design, why not use something not a lot of people have seen, the silver trime design with XX in place of the III on the reverse? Actually, when it comes down to it, I'd prefer a brand new desig
  8. Congratulations on both milestones. And, as some of the others have said, let us know what you're interested in parting with before you throw them to the lions on fleabay. I'm interested in a 1965 U.S. SMS and an uncirc 2005 Australian $1 Kangaroo. Jerry
  9. When they were released last year, my area in central NY didn't get as many rolls of TX-Ps as we usually did/do. And I now need another uncirc roll, preferably an o/w, h/t shotgun roll (orange/white, heads one side/tails the other, bank paper-wrapped). If anyone has one they're willing to part with, I have quite a few other states to trade (sorry, no 1999s or 2000s). PM for a list. Regardless of the State or its value on the secondary market, I only ask for a roll-for-roll trade. No premiums involved (after all, they are only quarters). Jerry
  10. Late on a comment, but there's still the March 15 - April 4, 1933 timeframe when there were 100,000 1933 Saints available for LEGAL purchase. Whether or not any were sold has never been mentioned. Jerry
  11. Welcome to the Hobby of Kings. Investment or fun? Even the most experienced collectors will tell you FUN! The only investment coins are the highest grade key date coins. And if you have that kind of money, you most likely figured out how to get it without coins. So, again, FUN! You miss the fun of the hunt/search by buying an almost completed coin folder. Where to start? How about (Anton, drum roll, please)... Jefferson nickels. It's not too late, even though there are now four circulating commemoratives available with one more coming (I take exception to the hype about #5 but tha
  12. Key dates and selected commemoratives (e.g., Buffalo dollar) should all at least hold their value. As for convincing your Dad about coin collecting, I'm reminded of something my mother once told me many, many years ago... "For those who understand, no explanation is necessary. For those who do not understand, no explanation is possible." Jerry
  13. March 15-April 4, 1933, Philadelphia PA - This was the timeframe that you could (allegedly) legally purchase a 1933 Saint and NOT have it confiscated by the Feds. I'd pick up as many as I could and get official receipts for all of them. 1856-1858, USA - Anywhere, just to pick up as many FE cents as I could. 1916, Philadelphia PA - For the SLQs and Walkers. Jerry
  14. I agree, sweet bunny. But my intention was more for the general information of the group rather than for me, specifically. I've read the rules and in an instance like this, it's a grey area as to where to post. I guess I'll keep muddling along and take my chastisements. Jerry Really, I'm not a newbie.
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