dacoinman

This is almost not even funny. LOL I suggest using a brand new Nickel for that.

Nice struck through!!! Early to mid staging at that. You say your dad was Navy. I know this is like a super long shot in the dark, but, He wouldn't have lived in Lawton, Oklahoma would he? If so, I know a gentleman in Lawton, OK, that served in WWII (Pacific), a stint in the philippines, Korea, and several other years in there too. The reason I ask this is that he also was EXTREMELY knowledgeable in the error/variety aspect of coin collecting. I had the luxury of buying a large section of his duplicates this last spring. I hope this guy and your dad are not one in the same, mainly because I just ain't ready to let that extremely knowledgeable gentleman cruise off into the sunset yet. LOL

Agreed. If the band was a little stronger I would have said VF-35, but I chose VF-20.

Unfortuneatley I don't have any half cents and only 3 Large cents in my personal collection. But then again, being the error/variety person that I am, well, ya know, kindsa hard to cherry pick these. LOL Anyways, what I was going to say, is that I have had the luxury of viewing a a local collectors half cent set....and I tell ya....WOW!!! He is lacking one half cent if I recall correctly, and the rest of his half cents are all XF to UNC. A jaw dropper to say the least! Was a VERY impressive collectoin though I must admit!

Thank you guys for all your kudos. Very much appreciated. As for where I got this coin....since I am from the south, i have to tell a long story to get to a short point....lol But anyways, here goes.... ...A former WWII navy gentleman whom I have had the luxury of meeting at a gun show, is an error/variety coin fanatic, like I. Well, he and I started talking and I ended up not even traversing beyond his table. I was in awe at seeeing some of the varieties I have only seen in books. I even went back the next day at went straight away to his table and he and I chatted it up some more, andbefore the day was done, I had bought about 100 dollars of his coins and got his phone # and mailing address. Well, before it was time for another coin show here in town, he called me up and asked if it was feesable for him to stay here at my house, instead of a motel, and that he would compensate me for the staying here at my house. The day was now sunday and he asked me what did I want for compensation for the stay, coins or actual money. Well I asked for coins instead. That's when he popped out that sac and said, you oggled this one quite a bit yesterday, how would this work out for ya? I said DEAL! He was happy and I was happy. But, he acquired that particular coin from a coin dealer opening sac rolls looking for mules, and my friend asked the dealer what he wanted for that coin (the double clip). The dealer said $10. And my friend bought it straight away. Well, now that it had travelled all that way to get to me. I now have had the luxury of discovering that the coin is well worth $200-$300 according to Fred Whienberg's site. But though, I still like to look at her, so, she wont be up for sale any time soon. lol Whew, now there is the story of my double clipped sac. LOL Think I got metacarpal damage from all that typing. LOL

dang I guess my pics are too good of quality.......I'll have to start saving them alot smaller to make them fit in the posts. The reverse looks just a s good too I think. Would show you guys, but my images are too big appearantly. Sorry guys.

Hey guys, been REAL crazy around here lately. WAY too much drama! But any way. If I got space to upload te pics I will. and they should be in this message if II have enough room to post them. This is in all honesty my most favorite error coin that isn't a variety!

Photographing set up is as follows. Stereo microscope. 1X & 3X powers with a 15x eye pieces (thus 15 power and 45 power. Also have 10x eye pieces for 10 and 30 powers). I have camera attachment for the camera I have. The camera is a Nikon Cool Pix 950. I attch the attachment to the camera and then attach those two to the eye piece of the scope. I use an outside light source (I use flouresence lamp myself, already have the camera adjust for the "blue" hue cast by it). The main reason for that is the heat. a regular lamp bulb get's hot pretty quick and is harsh on the highlights, especially on silver and unc copper. I may try and take a pic of the set up sometime so you guys can visualize what I am refering to here. On the eyes, the biggest thing you have to over come is when using a loupe for any reason, you MUST force yourself to keep both eyes opened!!! closing one eye tends to lead to fatigue, and what I refer to as loupe eye. Where the eye that you close so you can look through the loop get's blurry after doing that for any length of time. I used a loupe at shows, and I use the stereo microscope at home. You would be amazed at how fast you can check the pick up points on any coin. I have been known to sail through a wheat cent bag in a matter of days. ($50.00 face value ie 5000 coins.) As for that pic I promised yesterday, I am sorry, I went straight to a pub after work, and the next thing I knew, is that it was 12 midnight....LOL Ooooops. hahaha Sorry.

Thank you guys for your kind words. Normally when any kind of statement is made as to something being of value or not is usually met with disgust. LOL This is the first time I have recieved kind words for my knowledge. thanks alot guys. You don't know what that means to me. I personally don't deal with errors (ie striking, planchet mistakes) since those can happen at any time of any year. I personally like the varieties (ie RPMs, Doubled Dies, die retooling). I do have several errors though, find them frequently looking for varieties. If I can remember and get off my back side, I'll shoot a pic of an exceptional error Sac. Dollar I got. Nicely double clipped. Haven't seen another one like it, and wineburg(sp?) has one or two for sale, but no pics of them. But needless to say, not trying to sound like I am spamming the group, but soon I'll be listing various errors and varieties (mostly lincoln cents) on eBay. I use the same name as here, so if ya want, add my name to your favorite sellers. And who knows you might see something you like. If that statement there was unwanted I appologize and will edit it out if requested to do so. But as for locating varieties, 90% of my doubled dies and RPMs come from dealer junk boxes or single pieces purchased from thier regular stock. The rest come from rolls or wheat cent bags. Starting to only look for AU and UNC grades. They photograph so much better. LOL Well, see ya'll on the flip side. And I'lltry to remember that pic this evening.

I can professionally tell you that your nickle is NOT the 43/2 variety. The inside lower loop of the 3 would be flat, like a line was drawn straight across, and there would be a diagonal line goind Northeast from the tip of the lower loop of the 3. I can't finda pic though on the web. Bit I will find one somewhere. LOL What I see on your coin is damage from being hit by another coin or hard object of some sort. I hate saying it, but you got yourself just a plain 1943 Nickel. Sorry. The reason I know about 43 nickels so well, is that I have photographed 3 or 4 of them and have saved myself a few bucks by not buying a non overdate nickel for overdate money. You MUST becareful. Everything I described about the overdate MUST and I mean MUST be there!!!!!If it only has one of the two diagnostics, it is NOT an overdate. Just wanting to make sure nobody get's burned.

Also the differences in thickness could be caused by the hammer die being a smidgeon loose. Thus, when it comes down on the planchet the force may not be evenly divided amonst the planchets surface. Also, to acquire the square edges is the hard part to figure out. Maybe lack of pressure, ie a strong enough to make an impression, but not a full stregth strike. But, unless it is VERY dramatic, most lincoln cent planchet varieties aren't worth the 2x2 they are put in. Trust me, I have a fortune in 2x2ed face value lincoln cents just due to a small error somewhere upon the coin. LOL Just a thought, is the cent magnetic? I know US cents aren't magnetic, but if it was a foriegn planchet that got into the lincoln presses, you never know. Colombia is one country I can think of off the top of my head that uses(used) steel coated or bonded copper planchets (which are magnetic). Also, see if you can weight it somewhere (that allows grahams reading to the hundredth of a gram). US coins are almost always spot on the weight specs.

Hey Snoopy, If yo are a coin collector of Canadian coinage, do you have access to a Charlton or Haxby Price Guide? I am not very knowledgeable on Canadian varieties as I am on US varieties. But there may be a listing for that coin that might, and I DO stress the word MIGHT, be worth something significant. If you don't have one or both of those books, you might check your local library or coin shop, and take a peek. Never know til you research though. Here is an interesting site for Canadian Errors. http://www.coinscan.com/err/error.html I just got done looking, and the site admin hasn't added your 1943 CUD to his llist. So, you never know.....do some more research and see what happens. This part of the hobby will suck you in and not let you go. LOL On another note, the combinations of die cracks and or cuds, has little or no extra value than the CUD part of it. That from personal experience. Now if you want to see a nice die crack, look on your 1973-D Jefferson Nickles. I had one and sold it on eBay long ago, that had a die crack from rim to rim, and it was a thick die crack that was naked eye visible. Oh and it went for around $45 I think. Seen a Lincoln cent that way as well go for around $200. The reason I mention this is to le ya see that the market is and can be fickle. But, a coin with 3 or 4 small die cracks, doesn't do much for the coins value unless it is DRAMATIC. OK?

Filled die. Filled dies happen when some of the grease that s used to lubricate the dies falls onto the die and fills in a section of the die. I wouldn't call it a weak strike when only one minor section is affected and not a large area. I have a weak strike and a large portion of the details are missing from both sides ofthe coin. But that is what I see. A filled die.

Well, you still can't have the letters of the die stretch to fit a blank. That is what I am trying to say. if that is the case then the die to strike your nickel would have to be extremely distorted. and would never be used again. I seethe stretching on Wineburgs coin. but if you notice though the "stretching" still doesn't excede the original distance, what you see on his coin is some flow lines from where the metal travelled away from the center of impact. For a coin to truelly have "stretched letters there are only 2 ways, and of which, I personally don't feel that yours is either. #1 The die has been distorted to a quarter size (which I have never heard of such a thing to date) or #2 the coin was struck repeatedly over and over and over without a collar and then the coin would have had to have been struck in the range of 20 to 100 times to achieve that effect. I just don't see that plausible either. Don't get me wrong I would keep the coin, but from personal experience and over 10 years of error coin collecting (also a former member of CONECA and a current member of NCADD), that nickle would go under the ALTERED COINS section in my collections. It just doesn't look right to me. On another note, is there a limit to the amount of space that can be uploaded to the server in a given day or is it that there just isn't enough space to upload more pics to it? Because I took several shots yesterday that I would like to post. and I also have an early die state 1954-D D/D/D that shows both Mintmarks. Gotta run time to work....LOL

Found my lincoln cent broadstrike the size of a nickle. Notice how the lettering isn't "stretched" beyond thier normal distance? Granted some lettering never filled out due to a lack of circumfrencial pressure? But here's the pics. Oooops, can't add my pics. Not enough space left....