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A camera that I have been using


gxseries

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Thought I might as well start a thread about cameras that you use to capture awesome coin photos. I've been using this camera for probably a couple of years.

I do own a DSLR camera but I am not a big fan of it due to it's weight plus it takes a fair bit of effort to set it up. You'll also need dedicated lens to take close up photos. At the same time, I'll like to show that you don't need an expensive camera to take good photos.

I've been using a few different cameras and the most recent is Pentax Optio W90. The one before is Ricoh. Don't really quite remember what I had before that - probably a Panasonic lumix which I struggled to take decent macro photo.

I've been clocking up to close to 4000 photos on the Pentax camera and I've got good reason to like it. It's a 12.1 mp camera and it's got a super macro which focuses it down to 1cm. I also like how the lens is integrated with the camera - if you live in a dusty enviroment, it can cause a bit of a grief. I had a camera where the lens was jammed due to dust and it was a write off.

It is dust proof and shock proof but that doesn't mean that you go and bash it up... water proof as well but I haven't tried it out yet.

I also like the read / write time - it's fast enough for what I do and this is taking multiples of photos before I make up my mind.

You may want to read this review here: http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/OW90/OW90A.HTM

Personally I find it hard to beat the price of around 300 dollars when it was first out. It was a present from my dad as he knows that I take a lot of photos. Appearently you can get it around 150 dollars or a lot less if you are willing to go second hand.

What camera do you use?

 

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Thought I might as well start a thread about cameras that you use to capture awesome coin photos. I've been using this camera for probably a couple of years.

 

I do own a DSLR camera but I am not a big fan of it due to it's weight plus it takes a fair bit of effort to set it up. You'll also need dedicated lens to take close up photos. At the same time, I'll like to show that you don't need an expensive camera to take good photos.

 

I've been using a few different cameras and the most recent is Pentax Optio W90. The one before is Ricoh. Don't really quite remember what I had before that - probably a Panasonic lumix which I struggled to take decent macro photo.

 

I've been clocking up to close to 4000 photos on the Pentax camera and I've got good reason to like it. It's a 12.1 mp camera and it's got a super macro which focuses it down to 1cm. I also like how the lens is integrated with the camera - if you live in a dusty enviroment, it can cause a bit of a grief. I had a camera where the lens was jammed due to dust and it was a write off.

 

It is dust proof and shock proof but that doesn't mean that you go and bash it up... water proof as well but I haven't tried it out yet.

 

I also like the read / write time - it's fast enough for what I do and this is taking multiples of photos before I make up my mind.

 

You may want to read this review here: http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/OW90/OW90A.HTM

 

Personally I find it hard to beat the price of around 300 dollars when it was first out. It was a present from my dad as he knows that I take a lot of photos. Appearently you can get it around 150 dollars or a lot less if you are willing to go second hand.

 

What camera do you use?

 

 

That's a really nice camera and it does take some terrific photos, especially the macro feature. For coin photography I usually use a Nikon D3100 but since you cannot macro focus the standard lenses with it, I either use a manual focus macro lens such as a Nikon 105mm f4 macro AIS, or I add some extension tubes to the lens on the D3100. I use Kenko auto extension tubes which all auto focus and auto metering with an of the AFD or G lenses. I usually use a 55-200mm f4.-5.6 EDG with a 20mm extension.

 

http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Nikon-Products/Product/Digital-SLR-Cameras/25472.25472/D3100.html

 

353_25472_D3100_front.png

 

 

 

http://www.kenkoglobal.com/TP-AUTO-EX-TUBE-SET-DG.html

 

DG-EXTUBE-C-AF-S.jpg

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I use a Canon T2i DSLR, a Pentax Asahi auto bellows, fit with an APO-Rodagon-D 75mm f/4 1:1 duplicating lens. I use three semi-diffused IKEA Jansjo LED lamps for lighting.

 

Canont2i_picture_zps24200c58.jpg

 

Pentax_AutoBellows_BF041_M42_Universal_S

 

aporod75-4var_side_zpsbe3350cf.jpg

 

Jansjo_lamp_ikea_zpscf2a786f.jpg

 

 

I set things up like this picture displays:

 

Lighting_Schematic_zps8afa4412.jpg

 

 

And, I generally put the lights at around 3, 9, and 12 as close to the coin as possible without causing a glare:

 

Lighting_positions_schematic_zps7b0a0d4d

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And here are a few results with my set-up (a few different types of metals):

 

1913_Mexico_1Centavo_NGC_MS66BN_composit

1991_Czechoslovakia_Mozart_100K_PCGS_MS6

1950_Algeria_100F_Essai_NGC_MS66_composi

1958D_NGC_MS66FBL_Toned_composite_zps438

1860_GreatBritain_Farthing_NGCMS64_compo

 

 

 

 

 

 

That's a wonderful setup and your results are just superb. I have bellows for my cameras and reversing rings and such. I also have a full set of strobes but haven't really used them in a number of years. Your images are encouraging me to give this a few tries and see what I can accomplish.

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I'm saving up for a Sony Alpha, or any other 4/3 mount DSLR I can afford, so I can get adapters and use both my Minolta and Nikon lenses. I talked to a Nikon rep at the last camera show here in town and asked about Nikon DSLRs; he advised me that my classic lenses could be modified to work with it, but added, "but DON'T DO THAT!"

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I'm saving up for a Sony Alpha, or any other 4/3 mount DSLR I can afford, so I can get adapters and use both my Minolta and Nikon lenses. I talked to a Nikon rep at the last camera show here in town and asked about Nikon DSLRs; he advised me that my classic lenses could be modified to work with it, but added, "but DON'T DO THAT!"

 

If I had some decent prime lenses I certainly wouldn't modify them to accomodate a 4/3. Adapters can usually be purchased for a very reasonable price that would allow you to use your lenses without modifying them.

 

One of the main problems I have with my coin setup is getting the white balance set to something that resembles what I want. It took a bit of experimenting but I've gotten it set pretty much where I want it.

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I have personally found out that scanners are better than cameras. if you scan at 4800dpi you could see everything. like microscopic, you know

 

I've never been able to get decent scans of coins or medals. I haven't been able to try 4800dpi with my scanner. The scanner will handle it but I always get a message that I don't have enough storage to acomodate a scan that large. I can get 2400dpi to work. I've got 8gig on this machine. I do think that would be enough but??

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I have personally found out that scanners are better than cameras. if you scan at 4800dpi you could see everything. like microscopic, you know

 

The problems with scanners are many, but among them:

 

1) Scanners are designed to be in focus at the glass for two dimensional items (e.g., paper). Coins are 3 dimensional, and if a coin has even medium to high relief, a scan will not be in focus.

 

2) Scans don't allow you to adjust the lighting. What you scan is what you get.

 

3) Toning is almost impossible to capture in scans.

 

4) Scans don't show luster.

 

5) Honestly, 4800 dpi is not that much. That's the equivalent to focusing a dime in the full frame of an APS-C sensor (17.9mm coin that is 3400 pixels high). With a true macro photography set-up, you can easily get magnification at levels of 1:1 to 2:1. On an APS-C sensor, 1:1 macro photography is dpi-equivalent to 5900 dpi. 2:1 magnification is equivalent to nearly 12,000 dpi. The problem is that boosting your scanner dpi output is not equivalent to the optics in a macro (or enlarging/duplicating) lens that allow you to actually focus at a higher magnification.

 

All these things being said, if you already have a scanner, and your main goal is to "blow up" the size of a coin so that you can attribute varieties, etc., then by all means use a scanner. But, I have never seen a scanned coin image that could even touch the quality of a photograph. Just my 2 cents...

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If I had some decent prime lenses I certainly wouldn't modify them to accomodate a 4/3. Adapters can usually be purchased for a very reasonable price that would allow you to use your lenses without modifying them.

 

One of the main problems I have with my coin setup is getting the white balance set to something that resembles what I want. It took a bit of experimenting but I've gotten it set pretty much where I want it.

That's the plan, to get 4/3 to Nikon F and MC/MD adapters so I don't have to do any modifications. I was disappointed when I learned that Nikons are not backward compatible, though. I mean, there is still a LOT of F-mount glass out there.
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I have a Pentax *1st DL, which I have had foe a number of years. I use the standard lens and on a tripod I can get good pictures. I recently bought a digital microscope and I am getting used to it. I am not keen on the lights built in, and they can't be turned off, But it will magnify 20 times.

I do actually prefer the camera. I have tried with and without the flash, does not make a lot of difference.

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That's the plan, to get 4/3 to Nikon F and MC/MD adapters so I don't have to do any modifications. I was disappointed when I learned that Nikons are not backward compatible, though. I mean, there is still a LOT of F-mount glass out there.

 

You can usually get the old lenses modified to be AI compatible but there's a ton of AI and AIS glass that's reasonably priced and readily available.

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I have a Pentax *1st DL, which I have had foe a number of years. I use the standard lens and on a tripod I can get good pictures. I recently bought a digital microscope and I am getting used to it. I am not keen on the lights built in, and they can't be turned off, But it will magnify 20 times.

I do actually prefer the camera. I have tried with and without the flash, does not make a lot of difference.

 

Never tried the microscope route although I've been tempted a few times. Either way it's most important to keep enjoying what you're doing. Glad you're here.

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I'm not going to push the subject too much here, but I'm always trying to "convert" people to the bellows route. If you have a general interest in photography, optics, and a little patience to play around with the system, the price point is really unbeatable for the quality achievable.

 

Bellows: ~$70-90

Enlarging lens: Used for $25 (will work just fine) up to $300 (for the pixel peeping types -- note my lens is around $260 used, $600 new).

Adapters: ~$10 or so (to fit your camera to the bellows, and to fit the enlarging lens to your bellows)

 

=========================

 

These basic setup pieces can be had for around $120 with amazing results, as compared to a dedicated macro lens with less flexibility which will run you at least $400 or so.

 

This way of numismatic photography is not for everyone, but I have seen great results with such a setup. You can also do close-up variety shots by changing out your lens for a shorter focal length enlarging lens, easily attaining 3:1 macro magnification.

 

=========================

 

Example (small coin)

 

1904R_Italy_1Cent_PCGS_MS64BN_composite_

 

1904_Italy_1Cent_Size_Comparison_picture

 

 

1904_Italy_Centesimo_date_die_polish_clo

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