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Hey Guys-- :ninja: anyone have any experiance with taking proof coins out of the US mint set holders and submitting them. What are the chances of getting a PR70 or PR69? Is this a good Idea to break a sealed set up?

 

;) BY THE WAY-- How do you recognise potential PR70 or 69? And what about MS 67-70? ;)

 

On a different note-- I have a 96 Silver Eagle proof -- But I can see one little tiny scratch in it-- Is this coin doomed to mediocrity? and Best left ungraded?

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Most current proof sets if broken out of holders correctly will grade at least a PR68 or better. I don't see the point of getting coins "graded".

 

Honestly there is no way of telling the difference between a PR69 or PR70 coin. If someone tells you they can they're liars. Unless you're a cheap startup TPG that grades everything PR70..LMAO Hahahahahaa

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Most current proof sets if broken out of holders correctly will grade at least a PR68 or better. I don't see the point of getting coins "graded".

 

Honestly there is no way of telling the difference between a PR69 or PR70 coin. If someone tells you they can they're liars. Unless you're a cheap startup TPG that grades everything PR70..LMAO Hahahahahaa

 

 

Brett-- Thanks for the quick note-- Do you have any experiance with this?

 

How do you Break out of holders correctly?

 

The reason I see is if you want to sell them and maybe get the big $$$ :ninja:

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Modern proof sets, for the most part, will never bring big money.

 

Breaking coins out the holders eh? TIFFY WHERE ARE YOU???? Some people use a hammer to crack the things, others use a vice.

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If you are after the big bucks, you might as well waste your money on gambling. Chances are you'll learn it the hard way. As it may seem harsh, I'm not even a single bit sorry for this.

 

IF you are unlucky and ended up getting MS69 or less, you know you are wasting good time and money as you have to send it for slabbing, wait for it to come back, auction fees, etc.

 

I'll rather spend better money on buying original mint sets. If everyone starts being on the craze of breaking them up, eventually original mint sets will lessen and there will be the day that original mint sets are worth more than the ridicious plastic slabs itself. Remind me to get several original US mint sets.

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Honestly there is no way of telling the difference between a PR69 or PR70 coin. If someone tells you they can they're liars.

 

 

:ninja:

 

I can tell you the difference between a PR69 and a PR70, it's easy! PR69 exists, PR70 doesn't.

 

Both PR70 and MS70 are the ideal coin...a perfect coin...exactly as intended. Because of the minting process itself and the fact that the coin is processed through an automated process, the "perfect" coin will not be found. There will always be some form of blemish to it. And "good enough" is simply not good enough when the grade is supposed to denote "perfect".

 

There are some that will disagree, of course, and that's fine. But the truth is, "perfect" is simply an ideal fantasy that keeps the fire and passion burning trying to attain it.

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And it makes all the grading companies millions and millons of dollars a year

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Actually I have never broken open a proof set and i never will have the intention of doing so.

 

As GX said is you take a certain year proof set and everyone is breaking it open, eventually the still intact proof set that wasn't cracked open will be worth more. As example currently is the 1999 Silver proof set. When issued you could buy the set for about $36 including shipping from the mint. Not many people bought this set originally. Now with all the coin grading craze and the state quarter craze, everyone wants to crack open this proof set and get the coins graded. The price of these sets is now selling somewhere over the $300 mark.

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I think its all according to how the graders woke up that morning whether they give out a 70 or 69.

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As to breaking open a Proof set I do it all the time. I use the coins to fill in empty slots in my Whitman Albums. I usually get 10 sets for that reason. Also, order many sets for Christmas Presents. The best way is to use a sabre saw with a slightly more toothed blade than metal cutting. Just cut off the edges and the rest is no problem. If you use a blade with too many teeth the heat created will remelt the plastic as fast as you cut it. Large spaced teeth for wood will send plastic peices all over the place.

Not sure but you may want to contact PCGS or NGC to see if you could just send in the entire set for grading and slabbing. They would probably take them out for you and just add that to the already stupid bill they will charge you for something that will probably never be worth what you paid to have it done.

Not sure why people do that but at coin shows I see all the time coins that have been graded and slabbed and selling for way, way, way less than what someone paid for that process.

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I think its all according to how the graders woke up that morning whether they give out a 70 or 69.

 

Agreed. There is no such thing as a "perfect" coin, except in our minds. Sure the graders can say that....but I'd bet anything if you cracked out a 70 it wouldn't come back a 70 every time.

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