SMS

$18

It does definitely become much harder when the coin becomes worn. However, we must remember that normal circulation wear does not remove any metal content from the coin so much as it simply flows the metal (spreads it out). Thus, a worn coin will have it's devices smoothed out and apparent extra thickness and flatness as the metal spreads. Without being able to examine a number of MDD coins made from the same dies (or even an exact same coin) at different stages of wear, it is not possible to map the progression of the effects of wear for such coins. However, knowing the effects of wear on a normal coin's devices, I would think it would become easier to identify MDD in such cases. I would assume that the MDD would appear more like die deterioration the more wear occurs on the coin until the initial strike on tthe coin is no longer evident. But, I'm glad that my explanation was able to help in some way. My 10 year old daughter has become interested in die doubling and I have been finding the need to explain things in a very over-simplified manner to her. I have found, however, that in a lot of cases, actually seeing examples and comparisons has the largest impact in understanding.

PMD (post mint damage) will not necessarily make your coin worthless, but it is damage nonetheless and will lower the value depending on the type and extent of the damage. There are some cases, however, (like with trade dollars), where damage (such as "chop marks") can find a niche of collectors that value it for its historical value, so long as it is contained and does not "mutilate" the specimen. That said, there are those who collect stamped cents as a curiosity, but no real value added.

Half the battle in identifying a doubled die is understanding the process by which the die is created. A good read to start off with would be the How Dies Are Made page on John Wexler's site. To over-simplify it, the die is doubled when the raised image is pressed into the die and it shifts slightly. That would be like pushing a figuring into forming foam andit shifts or you pull it out and push it in again, but not exactly in the same position. The image will be in there twice, and at the same level. S, when you fill it, all of the devices of the image will be the same height, yet somewhat distinct. The double strike, on the other hand, happens when the die strikes the planchet twice, but not necessarily in the same position for whatever reason. The first image that was struck into the coin gets squiched down and is not the same level as the second struck image. When viewing this, the image is what we call "shelf-like" (like looking directly downward at the steps of stairs). The second image would appear like a shadow or a mirage image does on water. It is apparent that it is there, but it does not stand out like the rest of the devices. Taking a look on the internet at images of various known doubled dies may help you to get the feel of what it should look like. Hope that helps a bit. And if you are not exactly sure, feel free to post photos and ask!

$22

Comparing the coins that are up on eBay atm, it would appear to be a die clash. I personally would not pay the kind of premium being sought for it. I am also seeing "production totals" ranging from 375 to 500 only minted!!!! on some of those listings... Um...I don't think so. I've read that there were many more minted after that initial release on his birthday. You would want to check and make sure how many were actually minted to determine any rarity. And I am seeing many more than "just a few" of these clashes being offered. As more of these pence are checked over, I am sure many more will spring up in the wild and become more affordably available. Best thing is to simply figure if it is something you truly want in your collection. And determine what you are personally willing to pay for it knowing that more are likely to appear over time. If you are thinking of trying to turn a quick buck...I would highly encourage you consider otherwise.

The edge lettering is placed on the planchet using a castaing machine. When it is run through the machine, there is no determination of which side will be the obverse and which the reverse (just as when the planchet is placed between the dies and minted). So, there is no real right or wrong way for the lettering to be placed on a coin. So long as the lettering is there (and in the right order), then it is the way it was intended to be. Here is a short youtube video that gives a very brief history/overview of edge lettering.

Very nice off-centered strike there! Yes, the dime has some value. There is really no way of determining the value for it though until you start to receive some offers for it. I would say you could possibly get around $5-$7 for it.

I'll give you $4 for it!

$15

$10

Just pulled an impaired DCAM Bicentennial Kennedy (clad) proof from a roll last night. It took my daughters a few minutes to figure out what was so special about it. They didn't know such things could end up in circulation.

If I am not mistaken, Ecuador has not minted its own CLT coinage for the past 15 years? There are countries today that do not have currently minted coins, and they "buy" current CLT from other countries. The U.S. regularly exports current coinage to many of these countries (while not releasing them within our own country). Since our Mint Directors have been quite the lazy bums these past several decades, it's impossible to know how many to which countries these sales have been conducted each year simply through the annual reports. I've even noticed that the halves and dollars are no longer even itemized in the budget reports alongside the other denominations. But, as people travel to and from these various countries that we send coin to, we'll start seeing more and more of them in our rolls.

$8

Don't ask....and Ikaros...shame on you!! That opens up way too many cans of different possible worms....let's just leave the reference to hockey. And speaking of Canadians...I got a nice 1979 Canadian cent today in change.

$4

I'll throw in $15 on this one!

$9

Total population. The master listing has a total of 37 reported DDOs for 1973D Kennedys from all six varieties. So, the DDO-001 has the largest overall population at 17. However, it is the most defined/prominent doubling, therefore the more desirable (IMHO at least).

Invaluable! Was able to share it with my daughters! 🤣 FS-50-1973D-101, CONECA DDO-001 There is doubling all around in the date, IN GOD WE TRUST, and LIBERTY. Being a circulated find, it is not as defined as an MS example would be. But you can definitely see the separations, especially on the east side of the coin. Most prominent are the full split serifs on bottom and top of S, right leg of R, and upper portion of U. The 3 in the date is hardest to get the lighting right, but it's split east on the upper curve. Cherry Picker's Guide 5th Edition values MS-63 at around $25 (6 years ago). This is an AU, so it will be worth much less. Still, CONECA reports a population of only 17. If this is confirmed, they'll have to change it to 18. 🤓

I've been on a brief hiatus for the past few years. But, the past several months, I have been starting to get back into my personal hobby routine with roll searching and bulk lot foreign coin searching. Both of my youngest girls (8 and 10)have been becoming interested in coins since it is something that daddy has been doing lately. So, I was showing my 10yo how to search rolls and how to use the Cherrypicker's Guide to help with searching for varieties. As we were going through a roll of halves, this particular piece kind of jumped out, so I took a closer look under 10x loupe, and again under 50x microscope. I've been trying to get a usb microscope the past few weeks, but each time, the box has ended up making it here empty. And I have been having quite the time getting the lighting correct trying to get a close-up photo. But, this one is definitely going to be a keeper. I'm going to send it in for verification with CONECA just to make sure. But, under 50x, it's exactly as pictured in the Guide. Quite a find to get your YN even more interested in the hobby.

$15.60 Does the obverse have the same luster as the reverse? The picture does not make it evident. Thanks!

Very nice Eagle there. It's almost as nice as the recent 2007-W I got a hold of! 😹

Let's start this off with $1

is the other side exactly the same? Can you post a pic of it if it's different. Thanks!