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dacoinman

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Everything posted by dacoinman

  1. This is almost not even funny. LOL I suggest using a brand new Nickel for that.
  2. Nice struck through!!! Early to mid staging at that. You say your dad was Navy. I know this is like a super long shot in the dark, but, He wouldn't have lived in Lawton, Oklahoma would he? If so, I know a gentleman in Lawton, OK, that served in WWII (Pacific), a stint in the philippines, Korea, and several other years in there too. The reason I ask this is that he also was EXTREMELY knowledgeable in the error/variety aspect of coin collecting. I had the luxury of buying a large section of his duplicates this last spring. I hope this guy and your dad are not one in the same, mainly because I just ain't ready to let that extremely knowledgeable gentleman cruise off into the sunset yet. LOL
  3. Agreed. If the band was a little stronger I would have said VF-35, but I chose VF-20.
  4. Unfortuneatley I don't have any half cents and only 3 Large cents in my personal collection. But then again, being the error/variety person that I am, well, ya know, kindsa hard to cherry pick these. LOL Anyways, what I was going to say, is that I have had the luxury of viewing a a local collectors half cent set....and I tell ya....WOW!!! He is lacking one half cent if I recall correctly, and the rest of his half cents are all XF to UNC. A jaw dropper to say the least! Was a VERY impressive collectoin though I must admit!
  5. Thank you guys for all your kudos. Very much appreciated. As for where I got this coin....since I am from the south, i have to tell a long story to get to a short point....lol But anyways, here goes.... ...A former WWII navy gentleman whom I have had the luxury of meeting at a gun show, is an error/variety coin fanatic, like I. Well, he and I started talking and I ended up not even traversing beyond his table. I was in awe at seeeing some of the varieties I have only seen in books. I even went back the next day at went straight away to his table and he and I chatted it up some more, andbefore the day was done, I had bought about 100 dollars of his coins and got his phone # and mailing address. Well, before it was time for another coin show here in town, he called me up and asked if it was feesable for him to stay here at my house, instead of a motel, and that he would compensate me for the staying here at my house. The day was now sunday and he asked me what did I want for compensation for the stay, coins or actual money. Well I asked for coins instead. That's when he popped out that sac and said, you oggled this one quite a bit yesterday, how would this work out for ya? I said DEAL! He was happy and I was happy. But, he acquired that particular coin from a coin dealer opening sac rolls looking for mules, and my friend asked the dealer what he wanted for that coin (the double clip). The dealer said $10. And my friend bought it straight away. Well, now that it had travelled all that way to get to me. I now have had the luxury of discovering that the coin is well worth $200-$300 according to Fred Whienberg's site. But though, I still like to look at her, so, she wont be up for sale any time soon. lol Whew, now there is the story of my double clipped sac. LOL Think I got metacarpal damage from all that typing. LOL
  6. dang I guess my pics are too good of quality.......I'll have to start saving them alot smaller to make them fit in the posts. The reverse looks just a s good too I think. Would show you guys, but my images are too big appearantly. Sorry guys.
  7. Hey guys, been REAL crazy around here lately. WAY too much drama! But any way. If I got space to upload te pics I will. and they should be in this message if II have enough room to post them. This is in all honesty my most favorite error coin that isn't a variety!
  8. Photographing set up is as follows. Stereo microscope. 1X & 3X powers with a 15x eye pieces (thus 15 power and 45 power. Also have 10x eye pieces for 10 and 30 powers). I have camera attachment for the camera I have. The camera is a Nikon Cool Pix 950. I attch the attachment to the camera and then attach those two to the eye piece of the scope. I use an outside light source (I use flouresence lamp myself, already have the camera adjust for the "blue" hue cast by it). The main reason for that is the heat. a regular lamp bulb get's hot pretty quick and is harsh on the highlights, especially on silver and unc copper. I may try and take a pic of the set up sometime so you guys can visualize what I am refering to here. On the eyes, the biggest thing you have to over come is when using a loupe for any reason, you MUST force yourself to keep both eyes opened!!! closing one eye tends to lead to fatigue, and what I refer to as loupe eye. Where the eye that you close so you can look through the loop get's blurry after doing that for any length of time. I used a loupe at shows, and I use the stereo microscope at home. You would be amazed at how fast you can check the pick up points on any coin. I have been known to sail through a wheat cent bag in a matter of days. ($50.00 face value ie 5000 coins.) As for that pic I promised yesterday, I am sorry, I went straight to a pub after work, and the next thing I knew, is that it was 12 midnight....LOL Ooooops. hahaha Sorry.
  9. Thank you guys for your kind words. Normally when any kind of statement is made as to something being of value or not is usually met with disgust. LOL This is the first time I have recieved kind words for my knowledge. thanks alot guys. You don't know what that means to me. I personally don't deal with errors (ie striking, planchet mistakes) since those can happen at any time of any year. I personally like the varieties (ie RPMs, Doubled Dies, die retooling). I do have several errors though, find them frequently looking for varieties. If I can remember and get off my back side, I'll shoot a pic of an exceptional error Sac. Dollar I got. Nicely double clipped. Haven't seen another one like it, and wineburg(sp?) has one or two for sale, but no pics of them. But needless to say, not trying to sound like I am spamming the group, but soon I'll be listing various errors and varieties (mostly lincoln cents) on eBay. I use the same name as here, so if ya want, add my name to your favorite sellers. And who knows you might see something you like. If that statement there was unwanted I appologize and will edit it out if requested to do so. But as for locating varieties, 90% of my doubled dies and RPMs come from dealer junk boxes or single pieces purchased from thier regular stock. The rest come from rolls or wheat cent bags. Starting to only look for AU and UNC grades. They photograph so much better. LOL Well, see ya'll on the flip side. And I'lltry to remember that pic this evening.
  10. I can professionally tell you that your nickle is NOT the 43/2 variety. The inside lower loop of the 3 would be flat, like a line was drawn straight across, and there would be a diagonal line goind Northeast from the tip of the lower loop of the 3. I can't finda pic though on the web. Bit I will find one somewhere. LOL What I see on your coin is damage from being hit by another coin or hard object of some sort. I hate saying it, but you got yourself just a plain 1943 Nickel. Sorry. The reason I know about 43 nickels so well, is that I have photographed 3 or 4 of them and have saved myself a few bucks by not buying a non overdate nickel for overdate money. You MUST becareful. Everything I described about the overdate MUST and I mean MUST be there!!!!!If it only has one of the two diagnostics, it is NOT an overdate. Just wanting to make sure nobody get's burned.
  11. Also the differences in thickness could be caused by the hammer die being a smidgeon loose. Thus, when it comes down on the planchet the force may not be evenly divided amonst the planchets surface. Also, to acquire the square edges is the hard part to figure out. Maybe lack of pressure, ie a strong enough to make an impression, but not a full stregth strike. But, unless it is VERY dramatic, most lincoln cent planchet varieties aren't worth the 2x2 they are put in. Trust me, I have a fortune in 2x2ed face value lincoln cents just due to a small error somewhere upon the coin. LOL Just a thought, is the cent magnetic? I know US cents aren't magnetic, but if it was a foriegn planchet that got into the lincoln presses, you never know. Colombia is one country I can think of off the top of my head that uses(used) steel coated or bonded copper planchets (which are magnetic). Also, see if you can weight it somewhere (that allows grahams reading to the hundredth of a gram). US coins are almost always spot on the weight specs.
  12. Hey Snoopy, If yo are a coin collector of Canadian coinage, do you have access to a Charlton or Haxby Price Guide? I am not very knowledgeable on Canadian varieties as I am on US varieties. But there may be a listing for that coin that might, and I DO stress the word MIGHT, be worth something significant. If you don't have one or both of those books, you might check your local library or coin shop, and take a peek. Never know til you research though. Here is an interesting site for Canadian Errors. http://www.coinscan.com/err/error.html I just got done looking, and the site admin hasn't added your 1943 CUD to his llist. So, you never know.....do some more research and see what happens. This part of the hobby will suck you in and not let you go. LOL On another note, the combinations of die cracks and or cuds, has little or no extra value than the CUD part of it. That from personal experience. Now if you want to see a nice die crack, look on your 1973-D Jefferson Nickles. I had one and sold it on eBay long ago, that had a die crack from rim to rim, and it was a thick die crack that was naked eye visible. Oh and it went for around $45 I think. Seen a Lincoln cent that way as well go for around $200. The reason I mention this is to le ya see that the market is and can be fickle. But, a coin with 3 or 4 small die cracks, doesn't do much for the coins value unless it is DRAMATIC. OK?
  13. Filled die. Filled dies happen when some of the grease that s used to lubricate the dies falls onto the die and fills in a section of the die. I wouldn't call it a weak strike when only one minor section is affected and not a large area. I have a weak strike and a large portion of the details are missing from both sides ofthe coin. But that is what I see. A filled die.
  14. Well, you still can't have the letters of the die stretch to fit a blank. That is what I am trying to say. if that is the case then the die to strike your nickel would have to be extremely distorted. and would never be used again. I seethe stretching on Wineburgs coin. but if you notice though the "stretching" still doesn't excede the original distance, what you see on his coin is some flow lines from where the metal travelled away from the center of impact. For a coin to truelly have "stretched letters there are only 2 ways, and of which, I personally don't feel that yours is either. #1 The die has been distorted to a quarter size (which I have never heard of such a thing to date) or #2 the coin was struck repeatedly over and over and over without a collar and then the coin would have had to have been struck in the range of 20 to 100 times to achieve that effect. I just don't see that plausible either. Don't get me wrong I would keep the coin, but from personal experience and over 10 years of error coin collecting (also a former member of CONECA and a current member of NCADD), that nickle would go under the ALTERED COINS section in my collections. It just doesn't look right to me. On another note, is there a limit to the amount of space that can be uploaded to the server in a given day or is it that there just isn't enough space to upload more pics to it? Because I took several shots yesterday that I would like to post. and I also have an early die state 1954-D D/D/D that shows both Mintmarks. Gotta run time to work....LOL
  15. Found my lincoln cent broadstrike the size of a nickle. Notice how the lettering isn't "stretched" beyond thier normal distance? Granted some lettering never filled out due to a lack of circumfrencial pressure? But here's the pics. Oooops, can't add my pics. Not enough space left....
  16. If I am not mistaken this is labelled as a D/D/D. Which in either a very late die state or a very early die state there is the remanents of another D to the south. Nice pic though. With a web cam? or...?
  17. I would say yes. I would call it a clashed die. 50 centavos / 10 centavos. LOL potAtoe pOtatOe. LOL Atleast I got the country correct from just looking at the rulers head. On another note, I didn't gain much ground on pics yesterday. I even forgot to look for that lincoln cent (jail cent). If you like errors, look at my posts and find the one that I put in 5 images I think. The last image is of several lincoln cents that all have clips. I got 2 300 count boxes full of errors as I call them, clips broad strikes, capped die cents, etc. I'll make a note and try to get around to a project of creating a Forum on here showing a different form of an error with an explanation as best as I can explain. LOL Which as you guys can tell by now that my grammar sucks and I'm long winded. LOL
  18. The mint has it's moments. LOL Like in 2004 they said there could never be another Doubled Die the way the coins are now made, yet though a 2004 peace medal Jefferson nickle surfaced with some VERY nice doubling. The mint of course denies such a thing being able to happen. Nice RPM there. I don't have that one. But then again I only get quarter errors/varieties when I've looked at all the lincoln cents and all the nickles first....and well, I usually don't make it to the quarters at a shop or at a show. LOL Time runs out on me. hahaha As for lincoln cents, it isn't going to take much to have every single RPM for the entire series. Especially after that huge purchase recently. I don't have an exact listing, but I should when everything is logged etc. Currently I am starting at 1919d and photographing the RPMs only for now. Gonna need a larger memory card for the camera if I am going to photograph the doubled dies and not have to stop every 10 minutes to up load the pics to the machine. LOL And well, I am only 49 coins into the collection......49 coins times 16 shots (two shots of all four directions right side up, upside down, turned to the left and turned to the right, and at 15power and at 45 power). Thus a minimum of 16 shots per coin @1.2megapixels. so far, I could probably take another full mem card worth of pics and fill an entire CD right now. LOL BEWARE ERROR VARIETY COLLECTING WILL CAUSE INSANITY!!!! LOL
  19. Your Colombian 2 centavos doesn't look that worn to me. But what you are refering to is mor than likely a tool matking on the "C" ie a dropped tool on the die. Not sure. I never look at that spot anymore on Colombian coins You see some parts of the word COLOMBIA in the 60's were doubled on the master die (the top die to make other dies). Thus most coins show the doubling. The date is probably due to die deterioration. Seen that a lot to on the 1965 coins of colombia.
  20. Looks like your coin is a Colombian 10 centavos. And any error collector knows that Colombia is RIDDLED with errors and varieties. Just about every year seems to have an overdate(s). Of which there usually isn't any significant value for them. The die makers and or workers must have been nd are drunk. LOL What you have there is what appears as a DIE CLASH. That is where the dies come together to strike a coin with out a planchet (blank) inbetween. Thus the two dies strike each other and leave some of thiere impressions on the other die....ie 1970 lincoln cents are notorious for this, thus creating the term "jail cents". Where Lincoln look llike he behind bars. I have one of these and I'll see if I can dig it up and take a pic of it. Although bear in mind I am only on coin 50 of 1300 to be photographed. LOL LONG process for the quality of pics I am going for. Already filled one CD...starting CD#2. LOL As for flow lines, that is what happens when a planchet (blank) is struck by the dies. The planchet is technically a tad smaller than an actual coin of that denomination. and think of playdough or clay. Make a small ball with it. now squash it. the way that clay moves is not unlike how metal moves. Thus when a blank is struck by the dies, the metal of the planchet has to flow somewhere. And it does. Outward from the center. Thus an unc coin struck with a LOT of flow lines radiating from the center would give you a cartwheel (or sunburst) effect (which is something to look for in your Morgan dollars when you buy uncs).
  21. Not trying to be a pesimist(sp?) here. But something about that nickle is bothering me. I would have it looked at by a local dealer and or take it to a show and have sevral dealers look at it. What bothers me is this...If it were a broad strike the lettering should still be the same size of that of a regular nickle. But the lettering is "stretched out" on your nickle. So, for that to be able to happen is for the nickle DIE to have been distorted and distorted extremely. Secondly I notice that there seems to be a "rim" around the obverse and somewhat on the reverse. Again if this coin was broadstruck, there shouldn't be a rim at all. Have it looked at by someone knowledgable. I just haven't seen a broadstrike like that one. Ever. I have seen a "sandwhiched" coin displaying features like that though. ie a coin placed between two pieces of leather or wood and then "hammered" or pressed. Which would distort lettering like that. I think CONECA has an article on thier website under thier "No it Ain't" section. This isn't the article I was thinking of, but this does explain the process of "sandwhiching". http://conecaonline.org/content/OhNo0028.htm
  22. OK, took me to the week-end and late at night to finally get some pictures taken. Gonna see if I can add multiple attachments, if not, I'll have several posts. LOL First two pics are of the 1950-S RPM#1 (which is the same as yours). The 3rd & 4th pics are of a 1950-D / S. And finally the last pic is some of the many many many errors/varieties I purchased last week-end. Hope some of you guys find these images helpful and educational. I do want to state though that I do have these copyrighted (mainly because I plan on doing a book or two hopefully). Use these for your own personal use, but don't publish these pics in any form. K? Thanks.
  23. Correct you are. You see I was looking through a dealers "junk" box for proofs for my Jefferson Nickle collection. I located a 1990-S Proof Jeff, and set it aside for my "regular" collection. Needless to say, it is probably the largest spread doubled die since 1956 or even as far back as 1945 on a Jefferson Nickle. I noticed it's variety when I got home. I sent this coin to Coneca for verification, and well, long story short, I now am the soul owner of one of these guys, and it is in the COneca's Top 100. :D Here's a link to the information about this very nickle. http://www.conecaonline.org/content/jeffer...91.html#_1990-S
  24. Sorry about not getting on the pics last night. Just last weekend I purchased a collection of over 1400 coins, all either Doubled dies or Repunched Mintmarks. Needless to say I have been sifting through and reorganizing this collection into mine. Still just on the sorting aspect, not even up to the point of documenting what is in my collction yet. LOL I do have a 1950-D/S That I can take a shot of maybe tonight. I also have the RPM (RePunched Mintmark) that you have. I'll also try and get motivated to take that pic as well. I remember reading the Coneca RPM number on the 2x2 it was in, but I'll be danged if I can remember what it is now. Sorry again about not getting the images taken last night. But I did dig them out to do pics. I get half credit right? Hehe
  25. Every year and mintmark are known to have these varieties. Except the 1931-s lincoln cent now that I think about it. LOL (US coins being referenced here again. The number I was refering to was the Coneca #, but breen's isn't too bad, except that he lumped too much into small generalized paragraphs. Also, it appears that the quarter is either low grade and or it has been cleaned. Which makes the diagnosis that much harder. Your microphotography wouldn't be by a QRX-4 or whatever those intel microscopes are called. LOL The reason I don't like them is that the light is flooded straight onto the coin. If I used one of those to take my pics, I would turn off the scopes light scource and acquire a secondary light scource (such as an adjustable armed lamp or the like). That way you can angle the lamp to emphasize shadows etc. Which would help greatly, IMO. Still at freakin work. LOL
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