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Burks
If you had a choice between a PR69 Ultra Cam or a PR70 Deep Cam, which would you choose and why?
Stujoe
69 Ultra Cam because it would certainly be cheaper and I doubt I could tell the difference between a 69 and a 70.
joanjet
I have many of each grade. I always prefer the MS or PR 70, but sometimes because of availability and/or price, I go with the 69. Right now, I am collecting (1 coin per month) a complete set of the Silver Eagle Uncirculateds and they will all grade at MS-69 - the set will cost me about $900 when I am done. The same set in MS-70 would cost $30,000 or more. I just cannot afford that until I hit the lotto! I am now purchasing the 70 graded Eagles since last year, in fact just bought an NGC PR 70 Eagle today. They are pricey, but the 70 I purchased last year has more than tripled in value. A little bit at a time!

yes.gif

Metalman
Which TPG , both the same ? different?

I agree with Stu, the difference to most would not be able to be seen !!

Rick
Stujoe
QUOTE(joanjet @ Jul 4 2005, 03:53 PM)
they will all grade at MS-69 - the set will cost me about $900 when I am done.  The same set in MS-70 would cost $30,000 or more.


That is a whote lot of extra money for what is often an imperceptible and sometimes a non-existant difference in the quality of the coin inside. From a collector standpoint, I have never been able to wrap my brain fully around that. Maybe I could if I was Stu Gates, though. wink.gif
Mediccoin
QUOTE(Stujoe @ Jul 4 2005, 04:47 PM)
69 Ultra Cam because it would certainly be cheaper and I doubt I could tell the difference between a 69 and a 70.
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I'm with Stu on this one. If the price and coin are right, that's the one for me. bthumbsup.gif
Art
I wouldn't pay anything for either of them. I don't believe that any living human being can tell the difference between a PF69 and a PF70. I think that 's it's generally a "See how much money I have" kind of thing.

ccg
Neither. I don't really recognize anything past MS67
nohope587
I think I would go with the 69 mainly because I can't tell the difference between 69 and 70. But also because 69s are only in the miss groceries price range and not the rob bank price range like the 70s
AuldFartte
I agree ... besides, I can't tell the difference when they get past 67 or so sorry.gif
28Plain
I'd buy some more rolls of 90% instead. Proofs don't get me very excited.
Burks
QUOTE(joanjet @ Jul 4 2005, 03:53 PM)
Right now, I am collecting (1 coin per month) a complete set of the Silver Eagle Uncirculateds and they will all grade at MS-69 - the set will cost me about $900 when I am done.  The same set in MS-70 would cost $30,000 or more.

yes.gif
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Thanks for the reply. That is what I am currently doing. I've seen some nice deals on the 05 Silver Eagle for the Ultra Cam. I've always loved the looks of the Silver Eagle and decided since I have some nice cash flow (and it will continue), I want a set smile.gif
BiggAndyy
My question is, in whose tombs are the coins residing? It makes a big difference which 3rd party slabber has made the determination.

Not withstanding the above question, the comment "no coins really exist above MS67" is a very good rule of thumb. Since the market grading revolution has taken effect it has dumbed down and watered down the high grade coin market. Gone are the days of putting down a few grand on a high grade 'common' coin and being reasonably sure your investment will remain stable, much less appreciate.

I know that many people collect for reasons other than 'investment' but look at the comments above. They revolve around two major catagories, one, the coins just have no appreciable difference to the naked eye, and two, the money involved is just not worth it. A let's face it, none of us would buy a 1943 MS68 Steel Cent in a new-mistrust holder simply because the possibility of it being over graded by just one point is high and that one point overgrade would cost you $1,700. (And just what is the difference between a 67 and a 68 except the reputation of the company choosing the number?)
Mediccoin
The very reason to buy the coin and not the slab, huh smile.gif
cladking
As possible I will always take the higher grade coins whether it's in
a 69 holder, 70 holder, or raw. If I can't tell the difference between
two coins I'll always take the cheaper. Frosting makes a difference
to me with some coins. Where it does I might be willing to take a more
heavily frosted coins in a slightly lower grade.

papadoc
QUOTE(BiggAndyy @ Jul 5 2005, 07:54 AM)
They revolve around two major catagories, one, the coins just have no appreciable difference to the naked eye, and two, the money involved is just not worth it.  A let's face it, none of us would buy a 1943 MS68 Steel Cent in a new-mistrust holder simply because the possibility of it being over graded by just one point is high and that one point overgrade would cost you $1,700.


the 68 raises the eyebrow a little bit higher, and the price.. year after year after year... if you buy a 68 you sell a 68, you have a 68.. a 68 is a 68 is a 68 i'd pay $1400.....
BiggAndyy
But whose 68 is it? A PCGS 68 is not a NCG 68 is not a PCI 68 is not a SEGS 68 is not an ACG 68 is not a ANACS 68, etc. That is the crux of my question since Burks did not identify whose 68 it was.

Besides, a Steelie 68 looks just the same as a 67 but is 15x more expensive ($1,500 compared to $100). One would only shell out that kind of dough if they were buying the number on the slab.
Burks
I guess I should have said that huh? I meant to put down NGC but forgot.

My apologies.
BiggAndyy
NCG or NGC, they are two different companies with two very different reputations.
BiggAndyy
NCG : Numismatic Coin Grading
http://www.numismaticcoingrading.com/
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=8316048122

Notice something? The slab in the auction is the slab on their front page. Even though the auction states "You will receive the same coin graded PR69DCAM just the serial# will be different" (which doesn't really make logical sence), they appear to be self slabbers and many possible conflicts of interest arise in their grading standards.
gpnyc
I've seen 70s with obvious flaws and I've eseen 69s that look perfect. Go figure.
akdrv
The grades in general do not excite me, history does. I'd be content with an uncirculated coin if its PR70 or MS60
Burks
The Silver Eagles I've been looking at have been PR69 by both PCGS, NGC, NTC, and NCG. As far as I know, PCGS and NGC are pretty trusted grading companies. Am I correct on this assumption or am I missing something?
SilverDollarMan
Hello CladKing, welcome 2 the forum!
JoanJet, I'm doing the same thing...but $900 is way too high. U can buy an set, individually for about $500 to $550. I buy 5 or 6 a month. I'm missing 8 ASE's now, I have ALL the Keys except the'94 and '95. I'm at about $300 now. I need 89, 90, 92, 93, 94,95, 98 and 99. smile.gif
Sir Sisu
QUOTE(akdrv @ Jul 5 2005, 06:45 PM)
The grades in general do not excite me, history does. I'd be content with an uncirculated coin if its PR70 or MS60
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Bingo! For me an UNC is an UNC whether it is 60 or 70. With circulating issues I will try to find an UNC with the least amount of bagmarks, but that is about it. With non-circulating strikes like SAEs and modern commems, the base quality is already great. At that point I am more concerned that the COA and display box is MS70. wink.gif
Stujoe
QUOTE(papadoc @ Jul 5 2005, 08:41 AM)
if you buy a 68 you sell a 68, you have a 68.. a 68 is a 68 is a 68
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Unless it is yesterday's 68 and not tomorrow's 68 which are both probably much different than last year's 68 or next year's 68. wink.gif
joanjet
QUOTE(SilverDollarMan @ Jul 6 2005, 09:35 AM)
Hello CladKing, welcome 2 the forum!
JoanJet, I'm doing the same thing...but $900 is way too high. U can buy an set, individually for about $500 to $550. I buy 5 or 6 a month. I'm missing 8 ASE's now, I have ALL the Keys except the'94 and '95. I'm at about $300 now. I need 89, 90, 92, 93, 94,95, 98 and 99. smile.gif
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I am paying $39 per coin and $9.60 for the tax, shipping and handling/insurance - this is from the Home Shopping Network. I would have to pay $30 per coin to have it certified myself (with no guaranty that it would grade to a 69), so I thought this was not a bad price. So the total actually comes to $972 for 20 coins. I have 86-90 so far, they send me one per month. I do not want anything graded from any place other than ICG (where these are graded), PCGS, or NGC, and I believe they all charge $30 to certify a coin. At any rate, they are also throwing in a very nice wooden box with a felt lining for free and I liked that too! ok.gif
papadoc
QUOTE(Stujoe @ Jul 8 2005, 04:09 PM)
Unless it is yesterday's 68 and not tomorrow's 68 which are both probably much different than last year's 68 or next year's 68. wink.gif
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yeah yah never know what'll happen but i think paying for that number is worth it if you know you can resell it for more than you paid for it at any given moment.. and if you can afford to hang onto it, values in that range get more action than the 67.... save it for a couple decades and buy a new car with your $1500 investment... one year even, pay a few bills for free...

just for collection's sake... forget it, i'd go for the 67 in a heartbeat laugh.gif we all know that the only difference is that dumb number on the plastic....
Stujoe
QUOTE(papadoc @ Jul 8 2005, 08:50 PM)

just for collection's sake... forget it, i'd go for the 67 in a heartbeat laugh.gif we all know that the only difference is that dumb number on the plastic....
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The real money goes to those folks who can get that $7 in the right numbered piece of plastic. Of course, a lot of them spend a lot of money rolling the dice until they get it. wink.gif
thedeadpoint
Probably 70. I don't have a "perfect" coin.
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