QUOTE(oofbat @ Jan 31 2007, 04:35 AM) [snapback]299215[/snapback]
Hi again - sorry about the small pictures - I'll try and post some bigger ones this evening. As to the weight, my kitchen scales say 21 grams. Unfortunately they aren't so accurate that they can weigh in fractions of grams! What is the correct weight for this coin? I am not really sure what 'XF' means - is that good news or bad news or indifferent?? As I said, I have a whole collection of coins that I would like to sell but I really don't know where to start. Thanks.
The weight is probably OK since the correct weight is 20.73g. As to the grade, almost any coin reference will tell you what the different grades and abbreviations are. "XF" (sometimes "EF") is the abbreviation for "extremely fine". Above this, there is "AU" (almost uncirculated) and "MS" (mint-state) or "BU". In the BU category, there are further refinements of grade such as "choice BU", "gem BU", etc. Along with the letter designations, there is a numeric grading scheme which is popular in the USA and with some European sellers. This goes from 0 through 70 with 70 being "perfect". XF would correspond to a grade of 40; choice XF would be grade 45. AU is seen in grades 50, 55 and 58. Of course, the prices increase according to grade. In MS grades, one or two grade points can mean a big difference in price (sometimes double).
Where should you start? Well, asking questions here is certainly a good place. However, you need to have at least one good reference book so that you can tell what type and/or variety of coins you have. Also, you will need to learn how to grade coins the best you can, especially if they are higher-grade specimens. When you get around to selling the coins, many unscrupulous dealers will try to make you believe that your coins are in worse grades than they actually are so that they can keep the price low. OTOH, beginner collectors almost always overgrade their own coins until they have learnt how to grade properly. Also, dealers will not give you retail money for coins, even when you have come to an agreement on the grade, because they need to make a profit. The most you can expect from a dealer is probably 20%-30% less than retail.
Please note that the most commonly-used reference for world coins, the Krause-Mishler "Standard Catalog of World Coins", does not give up-to-date prices for Russian coins: they are usually much too low! Look around at different online auctions and you will get an idea of what your coins would sell for at an auction. If you are patient and don't have to sell all of your coins right away, you will probably come out better by offering them to an auction house or by selling them yourself on eBay than by taking them to a coin dealer and trying to sell them all at once.
BTW -- welcome to becoming a coin collector; I hope it's a fun experience for you!